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Macintosh Troubleshooting Pocket Guide for Mac OS
Macintosh Troubleshooting Pocket Guide for Mac OS By David Lerner, Aaron Freimark, Tekserve Corporation
November 2002
Pages: 80

Cover | Table of Contents


Table of Contents

Chapter 1: Macintosh Troubleshooting Pocket Guide
Macintosh computers work quite smoothly. And Mac users find them relatively easy to use. However, on some occasion, your Mac might need a repair, or you might need help figuring out how to troubleshoot a problem with Mac hardware or software.
This book is useful in these types of situations. We hope it will save you an unnecessary trip or tech-support call. In this guide, we give you the technician's answers to frequently asked questions. We also let you know which problems are serious enough to require help from an expert.
This book is essentially a list of common questions and answers. It's short enough that you can read through it and discover some useful new tricks, but it's also organized by topic, so that you can flip to the section you need in an emergency. And it's small enough that you can throw it in your computer bag if you're using a laptop.
We cover the following topics:
  • Avoiding the technician or consultant
  • Being prepared
  • Crisis situations
  • Bombs and crashes
  • The System (OS 9.x and earlier)
  • Mac OS X (including passwords and multiple users)
  • Printers
  • Connecting older devices to newer Macs
  • SCSI, FireWire, and USB devices
  • Monitors/displays
  • Memory
  • Viruses
  • Powerbooks and iBooks
  • Communications, the Internet, and AirPort
  • File sharing
There's also a section on other questions that don't fall into these categories.
We indicate tips that apply to Mac OS 9 and Mac OS X by including [9] and [X], respectively, at the end of the section or question.
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Introduction
Macintosh computers work quite smoothly. And Mac users find them relatively easy to use. However, on some occasion, your Mac might need a repair, or you might need help figuring out how to troubleshoot a problem with Mac hardware or software.
This book is useful in these types of situations. We hope it will save you an unnecessary trip or tech-support call. In this guide, we give you the technician's answers to frequently asked questions. We also let you know which problems are serious enough to require help from an expert.
This book is essentially a list of common questions and answers. It's short enough that you can read through it and discover some useful new tricks, but it's also organized by topic, so that you can flip to the section you need in an emergency. And it's small enough that you can throw it in your computer bag if you're using a laptop.
We cover the following topics:
  • Avoiding the technician or consultant
  • Being prepared
  • Crisis situations
  • Bombs and crashes
  • The System (OS 9.x and earlier)
  • Mac OS X (including passwords and multiple users)
  • Printers
  • Connecting older devices to newer Macs
  • SCSI, FireWire, and USB devices
  • Monitors/displays
  • Memory
  • Viruses
  • Powerbooks and iBooks
  • Communications, the Internet, and AirPort
  • File sharing
There's also a section on other questions that don't fall into these categories.
We indicate tips that apply to Mac OS 9 and Mac OS X by including [9] and [X], respectively, at the end of the section or question.
Additional content appearing in this section has been removed.
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Avoid Going to Your Technician or Consultant in a Panic
Your dealer, repair technician, or consultant is there to help. But wouldn't it be nice to be able to take care of some things on your own? Here are some basic steps that will allow you to handle some emergencies yourself:
  1. Save multiple copies of critical files on multiple drives, disks, or tapes. In short, backup constantly and religiously, especially when you are under deadline pressure. Save early and often. When you are working on important documents, you may want to periodically save a new version (append a letter to the name, like important work a, important work b).
  2. Don't save the only version of an important file on a floppy, Zip, or CD (in fact, you should never have only one copy of an important file). Make multiple copies. Don't erase your last backup to make a new one—you might be backing up a corrupted file and might need the previous backup.
  3. At least one of your recent backups should be in a different location (i.e., off-site). When working on critical material, you can email a copy to a co-worker or another email account once in a while. An Apple .Mac (dotmac) account for $99 per year includes 100 MB of off-site storage on Apple's servers via a very simple backup program that can perform scheduled backups.
  4. Install and use the latest version of your preferred anti-viral software (such as Virex—part of Apple's .Mac—or Norton AntiVirus). You should be sure to install the monthly anti-virus updates, which is normally as simple as clicking on an "Update" button in the program.
  5. Run the latest Apple Disk First Aid (this is part of Disk Utility in Mac OS X) on your drives once a month or so (always backup first). After a full backup, you can also safely use DiskWarrior, TechTool, Norton or Drive 10. Of these, DiskWarrior is our favorite, and Tech Tool is for OS 9 only.
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Being Prepared
Spend a little time getting ready to cope with a problem before you have one. All recent Macs come with a bootable CD-ROM with System software—keep it handy. If you own a copy of Norton Disk Doctor or DiskWarrior, keep it up to date and be sure that it will boot your CPU. It's also helpful in many recovery situations to have an external storage device like a FireWire hard drive. It's even better if you install a bootable system on that drive.
My hard drive has trouble getting going, but it always starts after a few tries. Should I bother backing it up?
No, your data is of no importance and you can probably recreate it within a few months. After all, you have lots of paper printouts to recopy from and you're a fast typist.
Seriously, if your computer or hard drive is doing anything unusual—squeaking, chirping, having trouble getting going, read/write errors, missing or damaged files—take it as a reminder to do a complete backup to another drive, removable media, or over the Web. Please!
How do I know what version of the System software I have?
Click on your desktop. Then click in the Apple menu at the top-left corner of your screen. The first item will say "About this Mac" or "About this Macintosh" or "About this Computer." Inside there will be the version of your System: 7.1 or 8.5.1 or 9.2 or 10.2.1 or something like that. This window also tells you how much (built-in) memory you have.
How do I know what Mac I'm using? [9 & X]
If the Mac is vintage 1997 or earlier, the model name is printed on the front or top of the case (PowerMac 6100, PowerBook Duo 230, Quadra 630, SE/30, etc.). Make sure you are looking at the computer case and not the monitor case.
In 1997, Apple began the unfortunate practice of using the same designation for computers even after many internal and external modifications. There are nine models of iMac, for example, each with different capabilities. Apple has official parenthetical names, like iMac (Slot-Loading CD-ROM), but you won't find these on the computer case. The AppleSpec database at
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Crisis Situations
I turned on my computer and just see a little blinking picture of a floppy disk, system folder, or a question mark. [9 & X]
Try starting from the System Install CD-ROM that came with your computer. If the CD or disk is ejected, you may have a stuck button on your mouse or trackball. Or perhaps it isn't really a startup disk and is lacking the software needed to boot your computer. Turn off the Mac, unplug the mouse or trackball, and then see if it starts okay from the CD or your hard disk. If so, the mouse or trackball is the culprit.
What you do next depends on your system version.
In some instances, repair programs will make things worse. This is why we say to always back up everything, so that, if a repair fails, you have another recourse.
If you have OS 9 or earlier:
  1. If it starts up okay from your System CD and you see your hard disk icon below the CD icon, the System on your hard drive may have become damaged. If so, back up your important files, run Disk First Aid to repair any directory damage, and then reinstall the System. If that doesn't solve the problem, try a "clean System install," which is described later in this book.
  2. If your hard disk drive icon doesn't show up under the CD or floppy icon, you can try running Disk First Aid. If Disk First Aid sees your hard drive, it may be able to fix problems in the directory. If it finds things to fix, run it again to be sure that everything is really fixed. If it keeps saying it fixed the same thing each time you run it, it's lying to you.
  3. If you own Norton Utilities, Tech Tool Pro, or DiskWarrior, you can try them now (but please read the next question first).
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Bombs and Crashes
My computer bombs whenever I launch my MajorSoft WordMangler program. [9]
If your problems occur only with one particular program or action, and are fairly repeatable, they should be easy to fix:
  1. Try giving the program more memory. Be sure the program is not running, then click once on the icon of the program and press -I (Get Info). On newer systems, choose "Show: Memory" from the pop-up list. Increase the "preferred" memory size by 25-100% and try the program again.
  2. Check the vendor's web site or http://www.versiontracker.com for updates or patches to the program, and try installing them. You may have a known problem that has already been solved.
  3. Try starting without extensions. The vendor will tell you to do this, so try it first. Hold down the Shift key while the Mac starts up. It should say "Welcome to Macintosh (or Mac OS), Extensions disabled." If the problem is gone, see the next question and answer entry.
  4. Quit the program, and then delete any preferences files used by the program. If they are complicated preferences, copy them to another folder or a disk in case it turns out they're not the problem and you want to restore them. The preferences file is usually in the Preferences folder in the System Folder, but it could be somewhere else, such as in the folder with the program (or in the "Claris" or "Aldus" or "your software brand name here" folder). Then reinstall the program from the original disk or CD and run any updaters.
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The System (OS 9.x and Earlier)
What's the big deal about the System Folder? [9]
System software is what makes your Mac smile when you turn it on, allows it to run, read and write hard drives, copy files, run other programs, and all sorts of other goodies. The Finder is part of the System software and is usually the program that runs first when the computer starts up. The System software lives in a folder that is usually named "System Folder," which contains the critical files "System" and "Finder," as well as many related files. In System 7 and newer versions, these related files are mostly in folders in the System Folder, such as Extensions, Control Panels, Preferences, and in 7.1 and up, Fonts.
If everyone just used the System Folder the way it comes from Apple, there would be far fewer crashes, bombs, and conflicts. But many programs add files or even folders to the System Folder, and most of us have added various system enhancements (anti-virus programs, security programs, and font management programs, such as Suitcase, FileSaver, and so on).
When your system is operating flawlessly, make a backup of your System Folder. It's easiest to do this with a backup program like Retrospect. Or you can boot from a CD or another drive, and then copy your System Folder to another disk or removable media, or use Apple's Disk Copy to save a "disk image" of the entire System Folder. If you have trouble later, you can restore that backup and get back to work. If you do this, save the messed-up System Folder by renaming the folder and dragging its Finder to the trash, so you can later reclaim any items you may have added since your backup.
What's a clean System install and how do I do it? [9]
As a System Folder grows top-heavy with extra stuff, your System can become less stable. Sometimes parts of the System files get damaged or corrupted and you don't know exactly which ones this happens to. Many times, Apple, software vendors, or Tekserve will insist that any problem you are having with your computer is due to all the junk in your System Folder, and will suggest that you do "a clean System install." That means making a brand new System Folder just like Apple would put on a new computer. This new folder will be lacking all your added fonts, custom doodads, and preferences (including your Internet access setup), so after you solve your problem you'll need to "dirty" the new System Folder again and hope that your problem stays gone. Some people try a much simpler dirty install first, which basically means deleting only your Finder, System, and Finder Prefs files and then running the System installer.
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Mac OS X
What's different about Mac OS X?
Mac OS X offers improved stability and reliability (but frankly, OS 9.2 is pretty stable, too). Behind the scenes, it is a more "modern" operating system with some of the new features people have asked for, like protected memory and preemptive multitasking. Among other things, this means that if one program should crash, you won't have to restart the computer. Also, a program will not hog your entire system (while starting up or performing a complex calculation, for example). Mac OS X also has numerous changes to the user interface, making it easier to do certain tasks.
Mac OS X includes a subsystem called "Classic" that allows almost all your old programs to keep running fine. However, to take advantage of Mac OS X's new features, you may need to update to "native" versions of your software.Check with the software publisher or with http://www.versiontracker.com/macosx to see if there is a free or paid update available.
Should I upgrade to Mac OS X today?
If you are a cautious person and your computer is doing everything you want it to, perhaps not. If you enjoy new things and like the new interface, or just want to be au courant, then go for it. There are also some great applications such as iPhoto, iCal, and iDVD that require Mac OS X. If you have an older, slower computer, like a beige G3 or early PowerBook G3, or any older PowerBook, you may be happier sticking with OS 9 (or buying a new Mac). Even if you have a faster computer, you may want or need to add some RAM (memory). If you are doing specific demanding tasks with your computer, like intense audio or video editing, your decision will be made based on your exact configuration of software and hardware. For instance, Final Cut Pro 3 runs great in X. But if you have an analog capture card, check whether the X drivers have been released and if people are happy with them. Most graphics programs have been upgraded for Mac OS X and work better than in 9 (or at least as well). However, as of late 2002, QuarkXPress is still a holdout and ATM Deluxe is not available, but InDesign, Suitcase, and Font Reserve all have been updated and work well.
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Mac OS X Passwords
How can I change my password? [X]
Use the System Preferences My Account (in OS X 10.2 and later) or Users (in 10.0 and 10.1).
How can I change someone else's password? [X]
Log on as a user with administrative privileges, and use the Accounts (10.2) or Users (10.1) pane of System Preferences. If you are not an administrative user, then you shouldn't (and can't) change someone else's password.
What if I forgot my password? [X]
You can ask your computer's administrator to change it for you.
If you are the administrator, it's a bit more difficult. Insert the Mac OS X installer CD. Reboot your Mac, while holding down the "C" key. This starts from the CD. At the installer screen, look in the Installer menu, and choose Reset Password. Choose your hard disk, and create a new password for yourself. Then click Save, close the window, and restart (don't reinstall Mac OS X).
How do I log in as "root"? [X]
Mac OS X systems ship with a root user, but with the user disabled. On Unix systems, the "root" user is the all-powerful account that can read, change, and delete every file on a system. Unfortunately, that power also removes all the protections built into Mac OS X to keep you from making catastrophic mistakes.
Here's an example. From the Terminal program, the command rm file removes (i.e., deletes) a file or an empty folder. So rm fish.txt deletes the file named fish.txt, and rm fish.txt cow.rtf deletes two files. The rm program deletes the files immediately—there is no trash in Unix. rm -r folder recursively deletes all files from a folder, and then deletes the (now empty) folder. So rm -r animals/ deletes the folder named animals
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Mac OS X Multiple Users
When I try to save a file someplace outside my Documents folder, I get a file error and can't save. What gives? [X]
Remember that Mac OS X is a multiuser operating system and you may not have permission to write files outside of your Documents folder. Some applications don't report permission errors properly and you may get a file error instead. If you are the only user of your computer but didn't set it up, someone who did might have added a nonadministrative user with limited permissions as the default user.
So how can I share a file with another user on the same Mac? [X]
To share a file, you can put it in one of two places. If you want others to read the file but not change it, move it to the Public folder inside your home folder. If you want others to be able to read and change the file, move it to /Users/Shared (meaning the folder named Shared inside the folder named Users at the top of your hard disk).
How do I get rid of inactive users? [X]
First, you should delete the user from the system. You can do this in System Preferences, using the Accounts or Users pane. Recent versions of OS X save the user's home directory as a disk image in /Users/Deleted Users/. Older versions (before 10.2) ask if you want to reassign the user's privileges to an administrator. You should probably choose yourself. Then you'll be able to manually remove (or archive) the old user's documents and home folder.
But what if there is no longer a user to delete but there are still incorrect privileges? You could log in as the root user, or use one of several utilities to change the permissions of those files. Author Sandee Cohen suggests an easier way: boot into OS 9 and then open the files and resave them. This also works for files that you try to trash but don't have permission to. Take them out of the trash, reboot in OS 9, and then trash them there. (Note that this only works with Macs sold in 2002 or earlier . . . newer ones may not boot into OS 9!)
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Printers
I chose my printer in the Chooser, and it forgot my choice. [9]
The Chooser is counterintuitive, because you can use it to make several simultaneous choices (printer, network drives, etc.). As a result, it doesn't display what's chosen. Once you select a specific printer, it will remain chosen until you select a different printer (unless your backup battery is dead; see later). To confirm what printer is chosen, select Page Setup from the File menu—at the top of the window that's displayed, you'll see the name of your printer.
Early Epson Stylus printer software can cause the printer choice to be forgotten—update to a more recent version.
To choose a different laser printer (or other AppleTalk printer) click on the appropriate driver icon on the left side (such as LaserWriter or LaserWriter 8). Sometimes you have to scroll down to see the correct icon. The specific LaserWriter that you chose shows up on the right side and is highlighted. If it's not highlighted, you need to click on the printer name on the right side to choose it. If you are using a LaserWriter 8 or newer, there will be a little printer icon in front of the printer's name to show that you already "Setup" for that printer. If not, after highlighting the printer, click the Setup or Create button to select options for that printer. Then close the Chooser with the close box in the upper-left corner.
If you have an HP LaserJet or other non-Apple networked laser printer, pick LaserWriter 8 on the left side and then highlight your printer on the right side.
How do I connect my LocalTalk printer to my USB Mac? Printers like the LaserWriter IINT, NTX, F, Personal LaserWriter NT, NTR, 320, LaserWriter Pro 600, 4/600 PS, Select 360, Color StyleWriter 6500, or an HP LaserJet with "M" or "MP" in its name? [9 & X]
To connect these printers to a new Mac, you must use an Ethernet to LocalTalk Bridge:
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Connecting Old Devices to New Macs
Where is the audio input jack on my new Mac? [9 & X]
Many recent Macs lack analog audio input jacks, but they made a comeback on some Macs introduced in 2002. If you need to feed analog audio into a Mac that lacks an analog input, you need a USB audio interface, like a Griffin iMic (which is not a microphone at all, but rather a line/mic level to USB adapter), or a more advanced interface like an Edirol UA-1A or Roland UA-3D. If you are serious about audio on the Mac, you will be looking at more sophisticated products, such as the Digidesign mBox or 001, or a FireWire audio interface, such as the Metric Halo products or DigiDesign 002.
Why won't my speakers plug into the Apple Speaker jack on my computer?
The Apple Speaker jack is a special micro jack that is only designed to connect Apple brand speakers (although Griffin has an adapter to connect other stuff to it). Non-Apple brand computer speakers plug into the regular audio out mini-jack on your computer, not the Speaker jack.
How do I connect my old ADB device to a new USB Mac? [9 & X]
A Griffin iMate adapter works well for most mice, keyboards, and other ADB devices, including many copy protection dongles. But for more complex devices like a Wacom tablet with a pressure-sensitive pen, we suggest buying a new USB version for best results.
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SCSI, FireWire, and USB
Macs don't come with SCSI drives anymore—do I still have to worry about this stuff? [9 & X]
Ultra-ATA (also called EIDE or IDE) drives have improved dramatically in the last five years, and performance differences between ATA and SCSI are much smaller than they used to be. But the price differences are still quite large. These days, we recommend SCSI drives (or disk arrays) only for certain audio, video, and server applications with very high data rates. If you don't have any SCSI peripherals and don't do multimedia, you don't have to worry about SCSI. If you do have SCSI devices, we can help you decide how to connect them (or replace them) when you buy a new Mac. For much more information on SCSI, you can check old versions of the Tekserve FAQ at http://www.Tekserve.com.
If my computer has both USB and FireWire, which type of external drive or CD burner should I get? [9 & X]
FireWire is much faster and is the preferred interface for these devices. Some hard drives and CD burners come with both interfaces, so you can use them with older computers that might lack FireWire. There are new versions of FireWire and USB in the pipeline, and USB2 seems to match some of the features of the current FireWire, but we still think that FireWire is a superior interface, even compared to USB2.
When I add a new device to my computer, like a USB Zip drive, should I install the software that came with it? [9 & X]
As Apple has upgraded the OS, they have included support for all sorts of devices. For instance, Mac OS 8.6, 9.x, and X already include drivers for most Iomega Zip and Jaz drives. In fact, the software in the box with the drive is probably old and out-of-date, and might even be incompatible with your OS. So we suggest trying the device first. If it works without installing new software, you are ahead of the game. And if you are on the Internet and plug in a new USB device that is not supported, the OS may offer to find the latest driver and download it for you. You can also check
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Monitors/Displays
Every once in a while, the image on my monitor begins to vibrate or shake. After a few minutes it stops. Any idea what could be going on?
Check the position of your monitor—especially if it is near the wall of your kitchen. Author Sandee Cohen tells us that one of her staff had a monitor that would begin to vibrate every time she heated up her dinner in the microwave oven, which was on the other side of a very thick wall. Microwave ovens can generate electromagnetic disturbances that can cause your monitor screen to vibrate or shake. Similar disturbances can happen near large power transformers, and in basements that are over subway lines. In challenged locations, a flat-panel LCD display (which is much less susceptible to electromagnetic interference) might be the best choice.
How do I connect my old Apple monitor to my new Mac? [9 & X]
For the first ten years, Apple used a DB-15 connector with two rows of pins to connect external monitors. If you have one of these monitors, there is a cheap Mac to VGA adapter that converts to the industry standard VGA connector, which has three rows of pins. New Macs have had VGA connectors for several years now.
How do I connect my new non-Apple monitor to my old Mac? [9 & X]
Most industry standard monitors use the VGA connector with three rows of pins. That fits right into new Macs, but for older Macs, there is an inexpensive MacPNP adapter.
How come my new non-Apple flat panel won't attach to my new Mac?
If the monitor has an analog connection, it's VGA plug should go right into your Mac. But if it has a DVI connector for more stable digital connection, you may need a $35 DVI-to-ADC adapter.
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Memory
I get "out of memory" errors in a certain program, even though I just added more memory to my computer. How do I get the program to know about the extra memory? [9]
Mac OS X eliminates this problem completely. But in OS 9.x and older, when you launch a program, it asks the system only for the amount of RAM set as its Preferred Size. You need to set the program in question to ask for more RAM. To do this, quit the program, and highlight the program icon. Then select Get Info from the File menu or type -I. At the bottom of the Info window, you should see a section called Memory Requirements. (With OS 8.5 and newer, select Show: Memory from the popup first.) Then increase the Preferred Size by 50 or 100%. If it says 4,096, try 8,000 (or 8,192 if you like base2).
Before increasing a program's preferred memory setting, it's a good idea to check "About this Mac" or "About this Computer" under the Apple menu in the Finder to check how much built-in memory you have. This will also show you how much memory is being used by the OS and other programs that are running. Don't set a single program to use more memory than is available. If you want to be able to run several programs at one time, be sure that the preferred memory of all the programs you will run simultaneously, plus the memory used by Mac OS, is less than the total built-in memory.
Please note that when running Classic applications under OS X, there is only 128 MB of RAM available to share among all Classic programs that are running. You should really upgrade your memory-hungry programs to OS X versions.
What speed memory do I need for my particular Mac, and how much can I add? Should I add it in pairs?
This has become so complicated that we suggest you use one of the online references like MacTracker or call your local Macintosh Specialist. Before calling, please check your exact Macintosh model and write down the memory information shown in "About this Macintosh" or "About this Computer" under the Apple menu. You can get more detailed information about the memory in your computer with Apple System Profiler.
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Viruses
I think I have a virus. What should I do? [9 & X]
Buy the latest version of Virex or Norton AntiVirus for Macintosh. But don't stop there—the virus definitions that come with the product are probably already out-of-date. You must get the latest update for the program you bought. Updates are released online every month; new shrink-wrapped boxes are usually many months old. Install the program, update it, and run it. We've always had a preference for Virex, which you get as part of a .Mac account from Apple.
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Powerbooks and iBooks
Does a battery drain when not in use? Are new batteries fully charged? [9 & X]
All batteries have some "self-discharge," usually 1% to 3% per day. That means that the battery will be dead after a month or two of sitting on the shelf and will need a full charge. Brand new batteries are always shipped without much charge, and must be charged before use. The PowerBook 500 series uses "intelligent" batteries that can get dumb if left uncharged for more than a month. This means that even if you don't use your PowerBook at all, you should plug it in for at least 24 hours every week so the batteries can charge. It's okay to leave your PowerBook plugged in all the time.
Is it okay to run my PowerBook or iBook without a battery? [9 & X]
PowerBooks have an internal rechargeable backup battery that saves your PRAM settings (printer, AppleTalk, clock, etc.). If you leave a PowerBook unplugged for a week or two without a regular battery installed, that internal battery will be depleted, your settings will be lost, and you may have trouble booting the computer. The regular battery also acts as like a ballast, maintaining smooth voltages to run your PowerBook. iBooks lack the internal backup battery and should always have a regular battery in place.
Should I get AppleCare for my portable?
PowerBooks and iBooks are manufactured more precisely, get rougher handling than desktop computers, and are expensive to fix. We think that Apple's own extended warranty program, called AppleCare, is a good investment for portables. Of course Apple is betting that you won't need it and that they'll come out ahead, but many of us would rather spend $249 or $349 on insurance to avoid the chance of a $500 or $1,000 repair. AppleCare doesn't cover broken plastic or physical damage from dropping or abuse, or service outside North America. AppleCare can be purchased only before your original warranty expires, and it cannot be renewed.
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Communications, Internet, and AirPort
Can lightning really damage my modem or Ethernet port? [9 & X]
Yes, whenever there is a big thunderstorm we see a number of Macs with dead modems come in for service the following days. We've also seen lightning through cable modems destroy Ethernet ports, requiring an expensive logic board repair. (One newspaper customer in the suburbs had the Ethernet destroyed on over 20 Macs during a storm; their insurance did cover it, but some policies exclude such damage.) We suspect it's more often people living in houses or brownstones with outside phone wiring rather than big apartment buildings, but we recommend unplugging from the phone line or cable modem during storms. Or you can try a surge protector with phone line or Ethernet port protection, but we haven't tested how well they work.
How do I save my Internet settings or switch among different service providers? [9 & X]
If you have OS 9 and earlier: Apple's TCP/IP and PPP control panels both have a "Configurations..." item under the file menu. Once you have your Internet configured as you like it, go to each of these control panels and export your current settings. You can also name and save configurations for several different Internet setups (one at home, one at the office, one on the road) and use the Configurations menu, control strip, or Apple's Location Manager to easily switch among them. Be sure to export all the configurations and save them on a backup.
If you have OS X: Make new "locations" in the pop-up menu at the top of the Network preference panel. This saves all your network preferences, TCP/IP, PPP, Modem, etc. Note that Mac OS X has an "all ports active" design and automatically switches to use an available connection (e.g., you unplug from Ethernet at work and go home, it detects your home AirPort network, and switches automatically). To disable this behavior, select Active Network Ports from the Show popup and uncheck the ports you want to be ignored.
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File Sharing
I want to transfer files from one Mac to another. How do I do that? [9 & X]
There are many ways to move files from one computer to another: you can email them to yourself, burn them on CD or DVD, or copy them via Zip disks or an external drive (USB, FireWire, or SCSI, depending on your computers). In some cases, you might want a backup program like Retrospect to make a precise backup to tape or other media. You can also put files on an Apple iDisk or other network servers and then copy them back to the other computer. If both Macs have FireWire, you can use FireWire disk mode (press T while the computer is starting up) to make one computer act like an external FireWire drive that you then connect to the other computer.
Finally, you can network the two computers and use File Sharing to move files back and forth. This may be the best approach if you will be moving large files back and forth regularly. There are three steps: network the computers with wires or AirPort, share the files on one computer, and access the files from the other computer.
How do I physically network two or more computers? [9 & X]
If you are using AirPort or a DSL or cable modem router, the computers are already networked.
If there are two computers and nothing else, plug an Ethernet cable between the two. All current Macs autosense what they are connected to, so you don't need a special crossover cable (but a crossover cable works between any two Macs, even ones that don't autosense).
For more than two computers, use AirPort, a cable/DSL router with built-in Ethernet switch, or an Ethernet switch (available in sizes from 4-port to 48-port, which can be stacked for larger networks). Plug the Ethernet port of each computer into the Ethernet switch (or Ethernet hub).
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Other Questions
I just bought a new Mac. Where is the manual? [9 & X]
New Macs come with a very short setup guide. The "manual" is under the help menu on the computer. If you are new to computers (or to Macs), or just want more printed information, you can buy one of many books that are available, such as Mac OS 9: The Missing Manual and Mac OS X: The Missing Manual, Second Edition, both by David Pogue (Pogue Press/O'Reilly & Associates).
How do I clean my screen?
Never spray anything onto the screen. Apple says to wet a lint-free cloth and use it to wipe the screen clean. Don't drip liquid down into the screen bezel. Don't use scratchy paper towels. "Kleer Screen" is the greatest. Apple and Sony both recommend it.
The clock on my computer keeps going back to 1904, or 1956 or something. [9 & X]
This means that the backup battery on your computer's logic board needs replacement. In most flat-shaped Macs and recent towers, it is pretty easy to do it yourself; in the Classic, IIci/cx, iMac, and beige tower Macs, you should let a professional do it. On a PowerBook, your internal PRAM battery may be dead—leave the PowerBook plugged in for two or three days to recharge it. After two or three years, a PowerBook may need its internal PRAM battery replaced by a technician. On both the iBook and PowerBook FireWire, some serious crashes (or pressing the reset button) cause the clock to reset. The crashing may be a sign of a problem, but the clock changing is normal.
Why can't I rename this disk? [9]
If file sharing is enabled, you won't be able to rename disks. Turn off file sharing. If this doesn't solve it, run Apple's Disk First Aid.
I got an error-XXX. What does it mean?
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Appendix A: Command Key Combinations
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Commands for Mac OS 9.x and below
Disable extensions at startup:
Shift while booting, keep pressing to also disable startup items
Open Extensions Manager at startup:
Spacebar while booting
Close all open windows:
Option while Finder loads (can fix weirdness)
Rebuild Desktop:
-option while booting (but read the question about this)
Zap PRAM (restore defaults)—System 6:
-option-shift while opening Control Panel
Reset Applevision Display (v1.52 or later):
-option-a-v while booting
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Commands for Mac OS 9.x and below and for Mac OS X
Startup Manager (most recent Macs):
Option while booting, allows you to choose which volume to boot from if you have more than one startup volume or CD
Boot from CD-ROM (most recent Macs):
"c" while booting
FireWire Target Mode
"t" while booting
Ignore internal hard disk drive:
-option-shift-delete while booting (some Macs ignore selected startup device)
Zap PRAM (restore defaults)—System 7 and up:
-option-p-r while booting
Force Quit current application:
-option-escape (In OS 9 and earlier may force you to reboot)
Software reboot (lose all unsaved work):
-control-power on (to restart after a crash on some Macs)
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Commands for Mac OS X only
Safe boot:
shift key while booting,10.1.3 and later, only loads essential extensions at boot and disables login (startup) items; try this if you just installed a new extension or driver and get a kernel panic
Verbose Startup Mode:
-v (shows what's going on during startup)
Single User Startup Mode:
-s (brings you to Unix style text prompt)
For many more keyboard shortcuts, check out Dave Polaschek's "Magical Macintosh Key Sequences" page at http://davespicks.com/writing/programming/mackeys.html.
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