By Stephen J. Bigelow
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Table of Contents

Chapter 1: Desktop Annoyances

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I remember my first desktop PC. It was a Packard Bell 8086 with two floppy drives and CGA graphics. The contraption terrorized my cats with its constant noise, and usually threw enough heat to warm my office in our frigid New England winters. Of course, a 20MB (yes, megabyte) hard drive and a newfangled VGA graphics adapter were prized upgrades that worked quite well-once I managed to get them working in the first place. Times have changed. Today's 3GHz+ desktop systems offer remarkable compatibility and stability across a myriad of hardware devices. Still, there are plenty of times when it seems that your PC genuinely hates you, and not even a deal with God can get things running the way you want. This chapter offers practical solutions to keep you from pulverizing your pesky desktop.

The Annoyance:

The image on my LCD monitor looks a little fuzzy no matter what resolution or refresh rate I use. I already downloaded the latest drivers. What else can I do?

The Fix:

Electrical noise usually causes an image to seem "fuzzy," but always start with the basics and perform a few quick sanity checks. Make sure you tighten (secure those little thumbscrews) the analog RGB video cable between the monitor and the PC's video adapter. Look for any kinks, nicks, or damage to the video cable. If it looks like the cable just came through an Enron shredder, replace it right away. Reroute the video cable away from any AC power cables or high-energy devices (equipment that can produce substantial electrical interference), such as coffee makers or motorized devices.

If you want to display top-quality images, dump that old RGB cable in favor of a Digital Visual Interface (DVI) connection (see Figure 1-1). A DVI cable uses digital signals rather than analog levels, so DVI tends to produce a cleaner image. There's just one catch: both the video card and the LCD monitor must have DVI connections handy.

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SETUP ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

The image on my LCD monitor looks a little fuzzy no matter what resolution or refresh rate I use. I already downloaded the latest drivers. What else can I do?

The Fix:

Electrical noise usually causes an image to seem "fuzzy," but always start with the basics and perform a few quick sanity checks. Make sure you tighten (secure those little thumbscrews) the analog RGB video cable between the monitor and the PC's video adapter. Look for any kinks, nicks, or damage to the video cable. If it looks like the cable just came through an Enron shredder, replace it right away. Reroute the video cable away from any AC power cables or high-energy devices (equipment that can produce substantial electrical interference), such as coffee makers or motorized devices.

If you want to display top-quality images, dump that old RGB cable in favor of a Digital Visual Interface (DVI) connection (see Figure 1-1). A DVI cable uses digital signals rather than analog levels, so DVI tends to produce a cleaner image. There's just one catch: both the video card and the LCD monitor must have DVI connections handy.

Figure 1-1: A DVI connection will typically produce a slightly better image than an analog RGB video connection.

Make sure you use the manufacturer's recommended display driver for your particular LCD model. A generic CRT driver may not provide optimal results. Also, try the resolution designed for the LCD. For example, an Acer F51 works best at 1024×768.

The rear of your PC has enough connections to befuddle Dr. Frankenstein. Worst of all, PC makers either fail to mark the connectors or use some kind of modern hieroglyphics that you need a Rosetta Stone to decipher. Fortunately, newer PCs use different colors to identify each connection. The key colors to remember:

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KEYBOARD ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

My keyboard absolutely refuses to respond. Did I kill it?

The Fix:

A dead keyboard is usually caused by a connection issue or a hardware failure. First, try another keyboard and see if it works. If not, you probably have a keyboard connector problem at the motherboard. Power down and try the suspect keyboard on another system. If the keyboard works on another PC, you know the trouble rests with the original system (not the keyboard). A motherboard replacement may be necessary, or you might be able to use a USB keyboard instead. This may be a cheaper and less time-consuming solution than a motherboard replacement. Clever, eh?

A quick keyboard check: press the Caps Lock or Num Lock button and see if the corresponding keyboard LEDs light up. If not, the keyboard lacks power.

The Annoyance:

My USB keyboard refuses to bring the PC out of standby mode, and I wind up wiggling the mouse to wake the system.

The Fix:

This hassle usually surfaces on older PCs with flaky USB support in the BIOS. To test this premise, turn off your PC and exchange a PS/2 keyboard for the USB keyboard. If it works, you just identified it as a USB port issue. Check with the PC or motherboard manufacturer for a system BIOS upgrade (or take the cheap way out and stick with the PS/2 keyboard).

Sometimes a similar issue pops up on new systems with full USB support. You may discover that neither the keyboard nor the mouse will wake the system from the standby or the hibernate mode. Surprise-this is by design. You need to press the Power button briefly to wake the system. Careful, though-if you hold down the Power button for more than four seconds, you turn off the PC and lose any unsaved data.

So how do you get a USB keyboard to wake a new PC? You need to adjust the power management settings for your Human Interface Device (HID) USB keyboard. Under Windows XP, open the System control panel, click the Hardware tab, and then click the Device Manager button. Now double-click Keyboards and double-click HID Keyboard. In the HID Keyboard Device Properties dialog box, click the Power Management tab and check the "Allow this device to bring the computer out of standby" box.

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MOUSE ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

I may be getting older, but other people must also find it hard to follow the mouse zipping across the screen. How can I make it easier to see?

The Fix:

You can tweak the mouse using a couple of simple tricks. Open the Mouse control panel, and then click the Pointers tab (see Figure 1-4). Use the drop-down menu and select a large or extra-large scheme. A bigger pointer is easier to see, right? If you still need help, click the Pointer Options tab and check the "Display pointer trails" box. Adjust the trail length until you can follow it easily.

Figure 1-4: Larger mouse pointers and trails can make the mouse much easier to see.

The Annoyance:

Is there a law against left-handed discrimination? If so, I plan to sue every mouse manufacturer on the planet. How am I supposed to use this right-handed mouse?

The Fix:

Work with me here-this is an easy fix. Open the Mouse control panel and click the Buttons tab (see Figure 1-5). Check the "Switch primary and secondary buttons" box to reverse the left and right mouse buttons. This at least gets the buttons right.

Figure 1-5: Reversing the mouse buttons is a big advantage for southpaw users.

Manufacturers sell a lot of mice in an ergonomic shell tailored to the right hand. You can switch the mouse buttons, but using a right-handed mouse in the left hand stinks. Instead, use an ambidextrous mouse for a more comfortable grip.

The Annoyance:

My cursor seems to jump and stall a lot lately. I need to run the mouse all over my desk just to move the cursor anywhere.

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STARTUP ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

It takes forever to boot my system. Do I really need to see the memory count or RAID drive check every time the system starts? How can I get to my operating system faster?

The Fix:

Most PCs make it through the self-test part of each startup in less than 15 seconds, but you can change several default BIOS settings to shave a few precious seconds off the normal startup. For example, the Phoenix/Award BIOS version used with the Tyan Tomcat i7210 (S5112) Pentium 4 "Northwood" or "Prescott" motherboard provides a Quick Power On Self Test option in the Advanced BIOS Features menu (see Figure 1-6). When enabled, the BIOS skips optional parts of the Power On Self Test (POST), such as the memory check.

You can also disable the Boot Up Floppy Seek option. This prevents the system from looking for a floppy drive at each startup (a test that can take several seconds). Also, check the Boot Sequence, which lets you specify which drives the BIOS checks for bootable media (in other words, an operating system). Make sure the boot sequence lists the drive you boot from most frequently first (normally the C: drive). If it lists other drives first (like a floppy drive or CD drive), the BIOS will waste precious seconds waiting for each drive to respond. In fact, set any unused drive spots to None (rather than Auto) to prevent the system from checking for nonexistent drives.

Figure 1-6: Speed your system startup with some carefully selected BIOS options.

Each BIOS maker often employs unique options and frequently labels them differently. This can make it a bit confusing to find specific BIOS options. Always refer to your motherboard manual for detailed information on each feature.

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BIOS/CMOS ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

I wish you PC geeks would stop confusing us with so many terms. One book tells me to go to the Setup menu, another tells me to check the BIOS or the CMOS. What magic keys get me into those menus?

The Fix:

The computer industry often uses these related terms interchangeably. To set the record straight, the BIOS (Basic Input/Output System) is a motherboard chip that stores the instructions needed to boot your PC and transfer control to the operating system. This is often called firmware because the BIOS instructions are recorded on the chip itself.

However, BIOS instructions must adjust for various hardware configurations (such as memory speed and I/O port availability). Part of the BIOS includes a Setup (or System Setup) routine that lets you define the hardware particulars (you can see a few example Setup menus in Figures 1-6 and 1-8). A small amount of very low-power CMOS(Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor) RAM stores each variable. In fact, a little coin cell powers the CMOS RAM when you turn off the PC.

Once you know the trick, you can easily get into the Setup routine. Most BIOS will show you the proper key to press on the screen in the moments following startup. For example, you will see a message like "Press <F2> to enter Setup" (see Table 1-1). You only have a few seconds to start the Setup routine. If you wait too long, the operating system will load.

Table 1-1: Common keys to access popular Setup routines

BIOS maker	Key(s)
AMI BIOS (General systems)	<Del>

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MEMORY ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

I want to increase the RAM in my system (two 256MB DIMMs) to 1GB. I know the system will take the extra memory, but I only see two DIMM slots on the motherboard.

The Fix:

When a manufacturer fills the only two DIMM slots in the system, you either learn to live with the existing RAM or dump the old RAM in favor of new modules. In your situation, remove the two old 256MB DIMMs and install two new 512MB DIMMs to get your 1GB RAM total. You can use the old DIMMs in another system (maybe the kids' computer), or sell the old RAM to your friends or neighbors.

Little plastic clips lock into notches on either side of the memory module and hold it in place. If the clips loosen, it can cause memory problems. In some cases, the module may actually fall out of its slot.

The Annoyance:

I upgraded the memory in my system, and now it just sits there and beeps. I called a technician who says the new memory is "too aggressive" for my system.

The Fix:

This type of problem occurs with certain combinations of memory and motherboard chipsets. The memory module itself may be fine. For example, Kingston KHX3200/256 and KHX3200/512 modules won't work in PCs with Intel i865PE, i865G, and i875 chipsets.

So what can you do? Remove the new DIMM first and retest the system (this tells you whether the rest of the system works). Check the DIMM's characteristics against your system's requirements. For example, a high-density memory technology (e.g., a recent SDRAM module with 512MB chips) may not run in a particular motherboard, even though the module's overall size may work perfectly. No problem. Install a different memory module (perhaps from a different manufacturer) and try the system again. Also, check for a BIOS upgrade to fix this little nuisance.

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PROCESSOR ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

I need some real processing speed to run a CAD program. How can I check the current processor make and model before deciding on an upgrade?

The Fix:

Open the System control panel (Figure 1-13). For example, my Toshiba Satellite uses a Pentium 4 2.8GHz processor. However, sometimes the System Properties reports nonsense like "Family 6 Stepping 5." This makes it almost impossible to make heads or tails of the particular processor.

Figure 1-13: System Properties often describes hardware information such as processor type and speed.

Fortunately, you can download a utility designed to detect hardware, such as SiSoft SANDRA 2004 (http://www.sisoftware.net). It will also identify processor details and display comparative test results (see Figure 1-14).

Figure 1-14: SiSoft Sandra identifies processor hardware and other system components.

The heat sink/fan assemblies sit atop your system processor and draw heat away from it. If you need to work inside your computer, wait 10–15 minutes for the heat sink to cool before you reach inside. If you accidentally grab a hot heat sink, it can easily leave a nasty burn.

The Annoyance:

My nephew needs a serious processor upgrade, but I have no idea which processors the motherboard will support.

The Fix:

This is one time when the motherboard (or system) manufacturer should be your principal resource. If you have the motherboard manual handy, skim through the introduction or specification pages for a list of compatible processors. Otherwise, look through the manufacturer's web site for the motherboard specifications (you might even get lucky and find a complete table of compatible processors). Companies like Tyan offer a comprehensive table of supported processors for all their motherboards (see Figure 1-15). For example, if you use a Tyan Tomcat i7210 (S5112) motherboard, just skim across the columns to see which processors it supports at 800MHz, 533MHz, and 400MHz bus speeds. At 800MHz, you can use processors up to 3.4GHz.

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CARD AND PORT ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

I see an "unknown" item in my Device Manager marked with a black exclamation mark in a little yellow circle. How do I get rid of it?

The Fix:

Windows simply lists devices it can't recognize as "unknown." To resolve this annoyance, you need to identify the problem device, and then get Windows to see it.

Here's a quick tip. If you just installed a device and Windows doesn't see it, then you already identified the problem device. Otherwise, right-click the unknown device and select Remove, then reboot the system and let Windows redetect the device. Windows will probably only identify the device type (such as Wave Audio Device or USB drive).

Next, Windows should launch the Install New Hardware Wizard and ask you for a driver. If not, right-click the unknown device, select Update Driver (see Figure 1-19), and follow the instructions. Check the Device Manager again to make sure Windows properly identified the device.

Figure 1-19: The Device Manager helps identify and troubleshoot a system's diverse devices.

The Annoyance:

I can't cram this new AGP card into my system no matter how hard I try. I thought all AGP cards were the same.

The Fix:

Nope. We usually think of AGP as a single technology, but there are actually three AGP standards: AGP 1.0, AGP 2.0, and AGP 3.0. Each standard uses the same operating voltage, but different signaling voltages.

• AGP 1.0 uses 3.3 volt signaling, and is often termed "AGP 3.3V." AGP 1.0-compliant cards, such as the ATI Rage 128 or ATI Rage Fury Max, will operate up to AGP 2X speed and will fit into AGP 1.0, AGP 2.0, and "Universal AGP" slots. However, AGP 1.0 cards will not install in motherboards where the AGP 2.0 slot is keyed for 1.5V operation (such as Intel i845, i850, or i860 chipsets intended for AGP 4X operation).

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MAINTENANCE ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

I caught a virus from an email attachment. My anti-virus utility found it and supposedly erased it, but now my system stutters and coughs and crashes left and right. Do I need to wipe the hard drive and reload the operating system from scratch?

The Fix:

Even when anti-virus tools manage to locate and eradicate a virus, it can still irreparably damage critical files. This can cause all kinds of system problems and force you to start from scratch. But before you throw in the towel, do a last-minute sanity check.

Start with your anti-virus utility. Older signature definitions may not detect or remove all current virus threats, so update your virus definitions and scan the system again (you might luck out and squash that one last bug hidden somewhere on your PC). On the other hand, if the problems started after a certain date, you might prevail on the System Recovery utility under Windows XP. Select Start → All Programs → Accessories → System Tools → System Restore, choose the "Restore my computer to an earlier time option," and follow the wizard (see Figure 1-23). If the trouble started after you installed a new program, the Add/Remove Programs wizard can remove problem programs.

Figure 1-23: The System Restore wizard

You may be able to repair the Windows XP installation if you boot from the Windows XP disc. When the Windows XP Setup appears, press "R" to repair the installation using the recovery console. If all else fails, restore the operating system. Use a bootable diskette to repartition the hard drive, then insert the Windows XP installation disc and restart the computer. When the Windows XP Setup loads, opt to "Setup Windows XP" and follow the instructions.

Virus checkers rely on definition files to identify common code fragments of known viruses. Anti-virus manufacturers (like Symantec or McAfee) update their definition files as people identify new viruses and their variants. Most anti-virus products provide you with free downloadable virus updates for one year after purchase. After that, you may need a subscription to continue receiving updates.

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Chapter 2: Laptop and PDA Annoyances

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My old Toshiba 4600 came with a tiny, 12-inch VGA display. I almost went blind from all the squinting and nearly got a hernia carrying that behemoth around. Mobile computing still had a few years before it really caught fire, but I had already caught the bug.

The rest of the world eventually caught on to the advantages of mobile computing. And while desktop systems still rule the roost, their lead shrinks every day. Students, salespeople, estimators, and even everyday PC geeks crave notebooks, sub-notebooks, tablets, PDAs, and all manner of intelligent devices. Of course, this trend will only continue as features improve and wireless access (once a limitation to true mobility) spreads across homes and offices.

However, mobile computers still suffer from some chronic weak spots. This chapter examines some typical startup annoyances and gets into some of the nitty-gritty issues surrounding battery life, display performance, and maintenance.

The Annoyance:

When I place a CD in my laptop's DVD-ROM drive, it just flops around in the drive.

The Fix:

Hmmmm...okay, I know this may sound a wee bit basic, but the optical drives used in desktop and mobile PCs typically employ different spindles. On desktop drives, you just seat the disc into the drive tray and close it. Laptop drives have a spindle in the tray, so you have to gently (I said gently) push the disc onto the spindle until it snaps into place before you close the drive tray. If you just plop the disc on top of that spindle, it will flop around like a fish and the drive won't read it.

The Annoyance:

When I try to restart my laptop from hibernation mode, I get an error message.

The Fix:

This one may take a little explaining. Mobile computers typically provide two power-conservation modes: standby (or suspend) and hibernate. The standby mode simply saves the system's current state to memory, and then idles hardware such as the display, hard drive, and PCMCIA cards. The hibernate mode saves even more power because it saves the entire system's state (including applications, data files, the works) to a disk file, and then almost completely powers down the system. However, any problems with the "save-to-disk" file (like file corruption or a bad drive sector) can prevent the system from resuming properly.

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SETUP/STARTUP ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

When I place a CD in my laptop's DVD-ROM drive, it just flops around in the drive.

The Fix:

Hmmmm...okay, I know this may sound a wee bit basic, but the optical drives used in desktop and mobile PCs typically employ different spindles. On desktop drives, you just seat the disc into the drive tray and close it. Laptop drives have a spindle in the tray, so you have to gently (I said gently) push the disc onto the spindle until it snaps into place before you close the drive tray. If you just plop the disc on top of that spindle, it will flop around like a fish and the drive won't read it.

The Annoyance:

When I try to restart my laptop from hibernation mode, I get an error message.

The Fix:

This one may take a little explaining. Mobile computers typically provide two power-conservation modes: standby (or suspend) and hibernate. The standby mode simply saves the system's current state to memory, and then idles hardware such as the display, hard drive, and PCMCIA cards. The hibernate mode saves even more power because it saves the entire system's state (including applications, data files, the works) to a disk file, and then almost completely powers down the system. However, any problems with the "save-to-disk" file (like file corruption or a bad drive sector) can prevent the system from resuming properly.

Fortunately, you can work around this hassle. A series of repeated startup failures will usually cause the system to ignore the save-to-disk file and boot directly from the operating system. For example, use the Power button to turn off the laptop for several seconds, and then power it back on for several seconds. Repeat this about five times until the error disappears and the unit boots normally from its OS. Once you recover the system, use a drive-checking tool such as ScanDisk to check the drive and fix any file problems.

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BATTERY ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

My laptop battery seems to last about 10 minutes. How can I squeeze more life out of this thing?

The Fix:

To get more running time from a battery charge, try these popular tips:

Remove unnecessary devices.

For example, PC Cards (PCMCIA devices) and USB optical mice draw additional power while connected. If you don't really need that PC Card hard drive, NIC, or mouse, remove it from the system.

Dim the display.

LCD displays can draw as much as 40% of the laptop's total power budget. Reduce the backlight intensity (usually accomplished through a series of keystrokes defined by the laptop maker). Lower backlighting will make the display seem a bit washed-out, but it will buy you precious battery time.

Throttle back the processor.

Many leading laptops can reduce the processor speed (and thus its power demands) to stretch the battery life (see the previous annoyance, "DVD Frames Lost When Mobile"). Of course, you may need to wait until you plug into AC power before running demanding applications.

Adjust the power management settings.

Use the Power Options dialog to adjust the LCD shutdown and hard drive spin-down times for your system. In most cases, if you set the Power scheme to Portable/Laptop, it will adjust the display and drive settings to a default value.

Use the suspend mode.

Close the LCD lid whenever you step away from the laptop. This puts the laptop into suspend (or standby) mode.

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LCD ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

I took a close look at my new laptop's LCD, and I saw more than a few black pixels on my white desktop.

The Fix:

A series of microscopic transistors operates each pixel in an LCD display. (Today's LCDs easily incorporate several million transistors.) Obviously, a manufacturer wants each and every one of those transistors to work flawlessly, but a bad transistor can result in a pixel with a fixed color.

LCD manufacturers allow about 9–10 defective pixels in the display. This means you may actually see a few oddly colored pixels on your laptop. On the bright side, you hardly notice a toasted pixel at screen resolutions of 1024×768, 1280×1024, or higher. Still, if you note more than 9–10 locked pixels, the laptop manufacturer may replace the LCD as long as the unit is still under warranty.

The Annoyance:

I did a system recovery on my laptop. The recovery went fine, but the LCD image quality looks worse than before.

The Fix:

LCD image quality depends on various configuration settings, such as resolution, color depth, refresh rate, and video driver versions. When you restored the system (I assume to its "factory fresh" state), you tossed out all your system updates and tweaks. Try the following tips to improve your view:

Update the drivers.

Drivers can profoundly influence your image quality. Download and install any driver updates directly from the manufacturer's web site. You may also want to download and install the latest version of Microsoft's DirectX drivers (available from http://www.microsoft.com/directx).

Set the resolution and color depth.

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PC CARD ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

I have a Type III PCMCIA drive card that I want to use with my laptop, but it doesn't seem to fit.

The Fix:

Easy there, killer. Your laptop probably doesn't offer a Type III card slot. The PCMCIA standards body (http://www.pcmcia.org) defines three types of PC Cards. All three card types use the same length and width (and the same 68-pin PC Card connector), but differ in thickness:

Card type	Thickness
Type I	3.3 mm
Type II	5.0 mm
Type II	10.5 mm

You typically use thin Type I cards for memory devices such as RAM, flash, or SRAM cards. Type II cards are usually used for I/O-intensive hardware such as modems, NICs, or USB/FireWire port adapters. Type III cards handle mass-storage devices with large components (such as rotating platters). Since cards differ only in physical thickness, thinner cards can serve in thicker slots, but not vice versa.

However, most current laptops offer two Type II slots together, allowing for either two Type II devices or one Type III (thicker) device. Check the card slots and make sure no plugs or dummy cards occupy the slots (some manufacturers plug these slots to keep out dust). Once you remove the plugs, you may be able to use the Type III drive. If not, you may have an older laptop stuck with Type I or II devices.

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PDA ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

I wore my stylus tip down to the nub. Do I need to dump this stylus for a new one, or can I just replace the tip?

The Fix:

A stylus should slide smoothly and evenly over your PDA display. Still, a slight amount of wear eventually erodes the plastic point. This wear can impact your pen gestures and writing style, so it helps to have a new tip (the same way a sharpened pencil makes for neater writing). Most PDA makers sell inexpensive replacement styluses, but some PDA and tablet PC makers use styluses with replaceable tips. For example, Gateway's Tablet PC series ships with replaceable stylus tips and a replacement tool. Use the tool to grasp the old point and pull. Insert a new point and apply slight pressure to set it in place.

The Annoyance:

When I sync my PDA and laptop, I get terribly slow and jumpy file transfers.

The Fix:

PDAs and laptop/desktop systems generally sync using infrared (IR) links. However, IR links need to be unobstructed and very close together (no more than a few feet). Excessive distance or dirty IR windows can impair communication and slow the effective data transfer speeds. If the problem persists, synchronize the devices with a USB or serial sync cable. Although less convenient than a wireless IR connection, a hard cable connection will usually offer much better speeds.

You can also configure the speed through the IR port properties. Open the System control panel, click the Hardware tab, and then click the Device Manager button. Next, expand the Infrared Devices entry, right-click the IR port, and select Properties. Click the Advanced tab and adjust the Speed Limit to an optimum setting (see Figure 2-9). For example, you can configure the SMC Fast Infrared Port used with a Toshiba Satellite P25 laptop to 4Mbps.

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MAINTENANCE ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

I really have to fiddle with my laptop to get it to dock properly.

The Fix:

Most notebook and laptop PCs provide a rear connection that fits to a compatible docking station or port expander. The connector uses a whole slew of very small contacts and, over time, dust and oils (such as skin moisturizer residue) can accumulate on these contacts.

Laptop makers suggest you clean the contacts with 90% (or better) isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab. Isopropyl alcohol (aka rubbing alcohol) cleans well and dries quickly without any residue. Clean the contacts on both the laptop and the docking station. Repeat the cleaning two or three times, let the contacts dry completely, then reconnect to the docking station.

The Annoyance:

I work with my laptop in construction areas, and I always bump my computer or spill something on it. Is there some way to protect this thing?

The Fix:

You really touched on a big dilemma for mobile PCs. How does a device intended for use in the field protect itself from the dangers and foibles of real life? Drops, smacks, and spills are just some of the dangers that await mobile computers on job sites and remote locations-and yet, most laptop, notebook, and tablet PCs are quite fragile. For hardcore Navy SEALS types, Panasonic offers a line of shock, spill, vibration, and dust-resistant Toughbook notebooks that endure MIL-STD-810F testing (the latest and greatest military standards). If you just need to survive the corporate boardroom, you can get a Toughbook for slightly less-demanding field service applications. You can learn more about Panasonic's Toughbook line at http://www.panasonic.com/computer/toughbook/home.asp.

The Annoyance:

My laptop gets so hot I could fry eggs on it. How can I cool this thing down?

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Chapter 3: Graphics Annoyances

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Processors may get the starring role in any PC, but the graphics subsystem really steals the show. The early days of 16-color palettes and 320×240 pixel resolutions are long-gone. Today, amazingly sophisticated, adrenaline-pumping games such as FarCry and Doom 3 redefine interactive entertainment with their realistic, real-time image-rendering and visceral detail. But graphics go beyond gaming to embrace multimedia tasks such as desktop acceleration, video streaming and capture, and cinema-quality DVD playback. Still, this incredible advancement has come with a hefty price: compatibility and software issues linger long after you install the hardware.

This chapter starts with configuration and driver issues. Next, it looks at important upgrade headaches and desktop snafus under Windows XP. You will also see solutions for CRT/LCD troubles, 3D (rendering-specific) issues, and capture/playback problems. Finally, the chapter covers a range of video-player annoyances.

The Annoyance:

How can I find out which graphics card my PC currently uses before I drop cash on a new card?

The Fix:

Most folks suggest you try the Device Manager to identify your current display system, but I usually recommend the Windows DirectX diagnostic (dxdiag.exe) tool. Just select Start → Run, type dxdiag in the Run box, and click the OK button. Once dxdiag starts, click the Display tab (see Figure 3-1). This identifies the exact display device (e.g., Radeon 9800 Pro), measures the available video memory (e.g., 128MB), and tells you the current driver name, version, and date.

Figure 3-1: Use dxdiag to identify your current display hardware and driver information.

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CONFIGURATION ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

How can I find out which graphics card my PC currently uses before I drop cash on a new card?

The Fix:

Most folks suggest you try the Device Manager to identify your current display system, but I usually recommend the Windows DirectX diagnostic (dxdiag.exe) tool. Just select Start → Run, type dxdiag in the Run box, and click the OK button. Once dxdiag starts, click the Display tab (see Figure 3-1). This identifies the exact display device (e.g., Radeon 9800 Pro), measures the available video memory (e.g., 128MB), and tells you the current driver name, version, and date.

Figure 3-1: Use dxdiag to identify your current display hardware and driver information.

The Annoyance:

My new game needs a 3D accelerator with 128MB of RAM. How do I check for video RAM and add RAM if necessary?

To see how much a new graphics adapter might help your system, use a graphics benchmark, such as Futuremark 3DMark03 Pro (http://www.futuremark.com), to measure your graphics performance before and after an upgrade.

The Fix:

First, the good news. Numerous tools will report your video characteristics. Run the dxdiag tool (see "Identifying Unknown Graphics Cards") and locate the "Approx. Total Memory" entry under the Display tab (see Figure 3-1). Now the bad news: if your graphics card falls short of the game's system requirements, you must upgrade the graphics card. There is no way to add more RAM to your graphics card.

One small caveat: onboard graphics chips (graphics chips on the motherboard) set aside a portion of the main system RAM for display memory. You can often adjust the amount of memory (also known as the AGP Aperture) through the System Setup (see Figure 1-12). Most recent BIOS versions let you allocate up to 256MB of system RAM for video use. Of course, this reduces the amount of RAM remaining for the operating system and applications.

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DRIVER ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

When I try to play a video, the video player cries out for some codec.

The Fix:

Multimedia files always employ some kind of compression to make them smaller. Smaller files download faster across the Internet and take up less space on hard drives. Some compression is mild, with very little (if any) loss of the original data, while other compression is very aggressive, with notable loss of the original data. A codec (short for compressor/decompressor) provides the instructions needed for an application (e.g., Windows Media Player or a video-capture program) to compress or decompress the data for a particular file format. Popular codecs include MPEG, Indeo, and Cinepak.

First, reinstall the video player application from scratch. As a rule, suitable codecs are installed along with the drivers and application software on your system. For example, if you install DVD movie-making software, the MPEG-2 codecs (and others) should install with the software. If the trouble persists, check your audio or video codecs for duplicate entries. Open the System control panel, click the Hardware tab, click the Device Manager button, and then expand the "Sound, video, and game controllers" entry. Right-click the Audio Codecs (see Figure 3-3) or Video Codecs (see Figure 3-4) entry and click Properties to see your codecs. Right-click any duplicates and select Remove.

Figure 3-3: Audio codecs include tools for speech, telephony, sound, and music.

Figure 3-4: Video codecs include tools for video capture and playback of popular formats.

The Annoyance:

My game installs, but it says it needs DirectX 9 or later. How do I get around this?

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UPGRADE ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

I want to upgrade my AGP card with a newer model, but I can't seem get the old card out of the slot.

The Fix:

A single screw at the chassis secures every expansion card. You did remove the screw, right? Right. Once you remove the screw, ease the card edge connector from the slot. Remember that a fast AGP card (such as an 8X card) may include a retaining clip at the rear edge of the slot. Lift the front edge of the card until the retaining clip disengages and frees the card, or gently pull the clip aside to free the card.

The Annoyance:

I installed a new AGP card, but now I can't play DVD movies.

The Fix:

This happens frequently when new video drivers interfere with existing DVD software (such as PowerDVD or WinDVD). First, use the Add or Remove Programs utility to uninstall the DVD playback software. Reboot the system. Now use the Windows DirectX diagnostic tool (dxdiag.exe) to make sure you installed the new video drivers properly. Select Start → Run, then type dxdiag in the Run box and click the OK button. Once dxdiag starts, click the Display tab and check the video driver version and date (see Figure 3-1). Finally, reinstall your DVD player software. The player should automatically reconfigure for the updated video driver.

The Annoyance:

I installed a new video card and now I hear a strange crackling sound from my sound card.

The Fix:

This annoying little headache usually crops up because of driver or resource glitches in your system. Check the following items:

Mute any unused audio inputs.

Computers are notorious for electrical signal interference, and unwanted signals can sometimes carry into unused sound inputs and emerge as amplified crackles or pops. For example, a very noisy AGP card may be cross-talking to the audio system. Overclocking the AGP card commonly causes AGP cross-talk. Check the AGP clock settings in your System Setup and reduce the AGP bus speed to 66MHz (or the closest possible setting). Also, open the Windows Volume Control applet and mute any unused inputs. For example, if there is no Line Input, check the Mute box.

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DESKTOP ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

My Taskbar simply vanished. Where did it go?

The Fix:

This little annoyance has an easy fix. The Windows XP Taskbar (often just a thin blue line along the bottom of your desktop) may be hidden. Move your mouse over that little blue line; when the cursor turns into a little up/down arrow, left-click and pull the arrow up a bit. The Taskbar should appear.

The Taskbar may also be set to "auto-hide." Move your mouse to the bottom of the desktop. The Taskbar will pop up, and then disappear again when you move the cursor. Go ahead and try it. In this case, right-click the Taskbar, select Properties (see Figure 3-9), uncheck the "Auto-hide the taskbar" box, and click the Apply button. The Taskbar should now stay on your desktop all the time.

Figure 3-9: Be sure to unhide the Taskbar to keep it on your desktop.

The Annoyance:

I run Windows XP on an older PC. It seems OK, but all the fancy little desktop features take time. How can I perk things up without going back to Windows 98?

The Fix:

Windows XP comes packed with bells and whistles, which can bog down slower systems. Fortunately, you can shut down these options and light a fire under your desktop response. Select Start → Control Panel → Performance and Maintenance → "Adjust visual effects," click the Visual Effects tab, and select "Adjust for best performance" (see Figure 3-10). This automatically disables most fancy desktop features. If you prefer to keep some features and disable others, use the Custom option and select each desired option yourself. Click the Apply button to save your changes.

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MONITOR ANNOYANCES

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The Annoyance:

My display seems to flicker a lot.

The Fix:

You can often improve the image quality by increasing the refresh rate. Right-click the desktop, select Properties, click the Settings tab, and then click the Advanced button. The refresh rate adjustment is available on the Monitor tab (see Figure 3-13).