‘Drama, drama, drama! The Italian meal is like an opera.’—Waverley Root
THE FOOD OF ITALY HAS SPREAD ROUND THE WORLD. What, after all, could be better on a cold winter’s day than a piping hot bowl of minestrone or spaghetti alla bolognese fragrant with Parmesan cheese?
But the popularity of pasta and pizzas has led to the belief that Italians live mainly on macaroni and veal, tomatoes and olive oil, washed down by Chianti from a straw-covered fiasco.
Nor has the home-grown hotel industry done much to dispel this illusion. Restaurants ...