Squares and Fountains
The elongated oval of Rome’s loveliest square hints that it is built atop Domitian’s ancient stadium. This pedestrian paradise is filled with cafés, street performers and artists, milling tourists, kids playing football, and splashing fountains. Bernini designed the central Fountain of Four Rivers, and added the Moor figure to the most southerly of the piazza’s other two fountains, constantly altered from the 16th to 19th centuries (see Piazza Navona).
Tradition holds that if you throw coins ...