The sleek Museu d’Art Contemporani (MACBA) sits near ramshackle tenements; Asian groceries sell spices next to what were once Europe’s most decadent brothels; art galleries share narrow streets with smoky old bars – this is a traditional working-class neighbourhood in flux. Since the 1990s it has been undergoing an enthusiastic urban renewal. Not surprisingly, this has sparked a real-estate boom that is now acting as a magnet for the city’s young, hip crowd.

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1. Museu d’Art Contemporani (MACBA) ...

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