Covered with forests and orchards and dotted with strolling lovers, Petřín Hill is a soft counterpoint to the spires of Hradčany on the Vltava’s left bank. Rising more than 300 m (1,000 ft) above sea level, the area began life as a vineyard in the 15th century, but has been a public park since 1825. Early chronicles say it was the site of pagan rituals to the god Perun, and believers still practise ancient rites here on 1 May each year. Above all, however, it is the perfect escape from the bustling ...

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