Prague’s heart is a layered cake of history: the oldest of its buildings have double cellars, owing to a flood-prevention programme that buried the original streets 3 m (10 ft) beneath those that exist today. Architecturally, it embraces every epoch, from the Romanesque to the Brutalist style of the mid-1970s Kotva department store. Historically, the burghers of the Old Town (Staré Město) were ill at ease with the castle district, and vice versa, with the town being a bastion of Protestant feistiness. The Old Town is still livelier than Malá Strana and Hradčany, with cafés, clubs, restaurants and theatres ...

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