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Head Over Heel: Seduced by Southern Italy by Chris Harrison

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Festivals and funerals

When the bell tolls midnight on New Year’s Eve, the Andranesi pack into La Chiesa di Sant’Andrea to receive spiritual nourishment, a divine start to another year, and to hear their town’s octogenarian priest read the annual village statistics for births, deaths and marriages. But in recent years, Don Francesco has been confirming what a dwindling number of gatherers already knew, that Andrano’s clerics have been burying rather than baptising.

We would soon be leaving too, if not quite so permanently. There are few jobs in a southern Italian fishing village for an Italian let alone an Australian, so come September, Daniela and I would start work in Milan. I had a job as a copywriter at her brother’s advertising agency, ...

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