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Head Over Heel: Seduced by Southern Italy by Chris Harrison

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A kilometre of sausages

The seasons changed overnight. We closed our eyes on summer skies and awoke in autumn fog. The city at our window had vanished, and drawing the curtain merely revealed another veil, thin and weightless, yet thick and heavy, under which Milan would sulk the entire winter. Southern summer was a memory. Northern winter a reality. No watermelon seller, no morning swim, only screaming sirens and blaring horns: a medley of mechanical rumours betraying the frenetic nature of life under the fog. The honeymoon was over.

Rolling in from the Po valley and nestling against the Alps, Milan’s winter cloak is as miserable as the city it obscures. Having been to Milan several times, Daniela suggested the veil actually did the charmless ...

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