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Head Over Heel: Seduced by Southern Italy by Chris Harrison

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Milano–Bologna

The intercity lurched across a tangle of tracks until clearing the station’s exit. As we set course for the south, apartments gradually thinned to factory then field. The carriage had a corridor along its left-hand side and closed compartments of six chairs—three forwards and three backwards—along its right. The walls of my compartment were decorated with pictures of the four seasons, but we stopped so often for no apparent reason that I began to think I’d see at least two out the window. Between the prints was a cracked mirror, a sign on the window warned in four languages that it was dangerous to lean out, and there was a ‘No Smoking’ sign on the door. It stopped no one from lighting up, but few objected because the smell of ...

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