Chapter 3

Riding the Waves of the Past, Present, and Future

Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station during Friday morning rush hour is one of the wonders of the modern world, with heaving swells of suited commuters gliding through lines of ticket barriers, joining a current of suits that takes them out to buses and walkways and on to their offices in government and corporate Japan. Of the 35 million residents of the greater Tokyo metropolitan area, 3.64 million pass through this station, the busiest in the world, every day. It is a sight to behold.

From a vantage point at the edge of the throng (and ideally nursing a decent freshly brewed cup of coffee) you can bear witness to the finessed urban choreography. As they pass through ticket gates, few commuters ...

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