IN THE KITCHEN

LEMONGRASS

Lemongrass tastes and smells exactly as it is named: like lemon and grass. It is neither tart as lemon juice or zest nor sweet like lemon confit. Instead, lemongrass adds a dry, grassy-lemon hint to foods but can taste like furniture polish if overused. I include it in the woody herb category, despite its name, because of its hard stalk and because it must be used judicially in cooking.

The first time I encountered lemongrass was years ago in Bali. The cut stalk was used in a spicy coconut shrimp soup. I found the combination so delightful that I ordered it three times in one week.

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Lemongrass Shrimp Kebabs with Green ...

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