Let’s talk about cooking with gas. Having lived in several different houses, Don has always noted the difference in feel and effect between electric and gas stoves. There’s more than meets the eye here. To a skilled cook, it’s the responsiveness of the gas, of turning a pan in different directions, of applying some heat and then backing off, that can turn a plain meat or vegetable dish into an extraordinary, flavorful creation greater than the sum of its parts. Where an electric range tends to cook food in a linear, uniform way—just plop on the object, set the temperature, flip occasionally, and come back when ready—it’s the back and forth, action and reaction, between the cook and their creation ...
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