Ten: Urubamba, Peru

“Adiós amigos! Take care!”

Pablo and Campbell stand waving on the riverbank, growing smaller and smaller against the long, skinny curve of bridge and the stocky cement houses. Ivochote: the last town in Peru’s southeastern Amazon reachable by road, where last night we sat eating sopa de gallo as Arnold Schwarzenegger gunned down terrorists on a forty-inch TV and half the tiny town watched blank-eyed, squatting in front of the screen or hunched over the wall or reclining luxuriantly at tables over their pricey desserts. Across the street blared the competition: here the other half of the town sat, squatted, or hunched as Sylvester Stallone stalked his prey. “What do you think they did before TV?” asked Campbell. “Talked?” ...

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