Make Your Own Waves

7

NEVER TURN YOUR BACK ON THE OCEAN

SO MUCH OF WHAT WE KNOW ABOUT CATCHING AND RIDING big waves has its origins in the Hawaiian and Polynesian cultures. From the “reading” of a wave, to the position in the lineup, to the mental and spiritual preparation, all have their roots in the South Pacific where the people know and respect the ocean. This knowledge and respect has been passed down from generation to generation. So, from their earliest moments at the beach, Hawaiian parents can be heard telling their children “Mai Huli`oe I Kokua o Ke Kai”—never turn your back on the ocean.

This cautionary phrase contains within it multiple nuances and messages. The ocean is so powerful, so unpredictable even, that being on constant alert is mandatory. Just ...