CHAPTER 1

What Keeps You Up at Night?

Picture yourself on a warm summer’s day, pulling into Lee’s Ferry, Arizona, on a rickety old yellow school bus—your transportation from Page, Arizona. You unpack your belongings, stuff them into a dry bag, and begin the orientation for the eight-day river trip through the Grand Canyon. During your plane ride and bus ride to the middle of nowhere, your cares have melted away. Your only frustration is that you didn’t bring enough sunblock. As your adventure down the Colorado River begins, your attention for the next eight days turns to nothing more than the whitewater and red rock. Not surprisingly, when you crawl into your sleeping bag at night, the only thing keeping you awake is the panorama of the Milky ...

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