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WHEN I THINK back to my childhood growing up in East Haven, Connecticut, a town not far from Branford, where Zane’s is located today, I’ll never forget Phil’s Canteen—one of those mobile trucks that sold food at construction sites. It wasn’t that I especially liked the food or drink they had at Phil’s. After all, I was nine. The reason I’ll never forget that name is that Phil’s sponsored my Little League baseball team. That meant I had that name, in sporty cursive, sprawled across my chest for an entire summer.
Anyone who has ever played Little League understands; the team name you play under is something you never forget. (I also remember that our team consistently put a beating on Foxon Auto Body, but the Harco Laboratories ...