|En este mundo traidor||(In this treacherous world|
|nada es verdad ni es mentira||nothing is true nor a lie,|
|todo es según el color||all depends on the colour|
|del cristal con que se mira.||of the glass you look through.)|
Ramón de Campoamor (1817–1901), Spanish poet
WHEN THE RESIDENTS of the sophisticated northern Italian city of Turin describe their metropolis as a “magical city”, they really mean it. For some reason, Turin has always been regarded as one of Europe's capitals of magic. Every day crowds of visitors eagerly join guided tours offering to unveil the city's mysterious landmarks, ancient underground galleries ...