CHAPTER 3

Welcome Each Day, Its Pleasures and Its Challenges

IT TOOK ME FIFTEEN MINUTES TO REMOVE ALL THE THISTLES WEDGED into my hiking socks and pants. The trail wound through delicate fields of asparagus and somehow I’d found bad stuff in which to get stuck. Three English guys I’d passed earlier stopped to ask if I was all right. I told them my pride was injured but I wasn’t, so they smiled and walked on. I’d end up telling them the story over beers that night.

The story started the previous night when I read a quote from another pilgrim that gave me an epiphany: “In the hospices you can have everything you want, except in the Hospital de Santiago: there the people are very mocking. The women in the hospice yell at the pilgrims a lot. But ...

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