the language of fashion design
A straight-grain gown is
fitted clean with vertical
darts, while heavy cowls
and drapery build up
the shoulders in a fluid,
rounded form.
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unique garment form. Collars, sleeves,
bodices, coats, or dresses can be draped
freehand on a three-dimensional form, in
muslin (which is inexpensive and easy to
mark), orin the actual fabric (more expen-
sive) to observe its behavior and observe its
straight grain’s orientation in relation to the
garment’s shape. During the draping process,
seams are shaped by hand, exerting control
over their quantity, angle, placement, and
line. Draping the garment, a designer makes
decisions working with the body’s shape, the
fabric’s behavior, and the grain line. Often a
(continued on page 72)
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