
the language of fashion design
lar flare (a doughnut-shaped cut of fabric in
which the hole becomes the waistline and the
outer edges fall in flared ripples) or dirndl
construction (a rectangular panel gathered
into a waistband or yoke). The slash-and-
spread pattern-making technique can be
used to add volume to any chosen area in a
fitted garment’s pattern, whether a straight
sleeve, cigarette skirt, collar, or slacks.
With accumulated weight, a fabric’s
excesses will collapse vertically to the direc-
tion of the hem. The location and amount
of volume will also affect the function of
the form: ease of movement, warmth, flow
of fabric, and cost ...