50Go or No Go?

EVEREST’S NORTH BASE CAMP is located at 17,400 feet. At altitudes greater than 14,000 feet, our bodies’ ability to make proteins slows down and their break-down process increases. The result is that high-altitude climbers lose more muscle, faster.1 Unlike a pre-race training period, when athletes are eating and training to ensure their best performance, as climbers gain elevation, their strength weakens. “If we lose ten pounds of weight at sea level, twenty percent of that would be muscle. If we lose ten pounds at 15,000 feet elevation, sixty-five percent of that would be muscle.”2 Mount Everest is 29,029 feet high.

Further, there is only 53% of the oxygen present at base camp as there is at sea level. At Mount Everest’s summit, 36%.3 However, although our muscular strength is decreasing the longer we stay at high altitudes, the opposite is true for our heart and lungs. By conducting acclimatization hikes and spending time at those higher altitudes, they become more efficient in using what oxygen is available. Eric was aware of this and, like most climbers, conducted four acclimatization hikes prior to his summit attempt.

Fitness is still important, but when your battlefield causes 65% of any weight loss to be muscular and there is less than 40% of the normal oxygen available, physical and mental toughness will be required.

On May 18, 2010, Eric sat in Base Camp (BC) waiting to begin his summit attempt to the roof of the world. He had completed his fourth and ...

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