If I remade the classic film The Graduate, the single word of business advice I would offer Dustin Hoffman’s character would be not “plastics” but “chicken.” Around the country small poultry producers are beating the odds. Eberly Farms, based in Amish country in Pennsylvania, sells a mean organic chicken. So does Nature’s Premiere in Michigan, Buddy’s Natural Chicken in Texas, Real Chicken in New Mexico, and Petaluma Poultry in California. With the world now on high alert for a deadly avian flu pandemic, it seems likely that Americans are going to become extremely demanding that the poultry meat they put on the table is raised carefully, cleanly, and healthily. That’s bad news for a global industry notorious for producing ...

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