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IN MANY PARTS OF THE WORLD, people who live close to the sea have developed their own soups and stews. They range from light, brothy soups to rich, chunky stews, with no clear distinction between soups and stews. These soups are a challenge for those who rely on a retail market where fish are sold in fillet form and bones are not readily available. Try to patronize a fish market where the turnover is high.

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Fish heads make the richest and tastiest broth.

Each region surrounding the Mediterranean makes its own version of fish soup. Saffron shows ...

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