The Textile Artist's Studio Handbook

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(Fogra 39) Job:02-28051 Title:RP-Textile Artist Handbook

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122-137_28051.indd 130 3/6/12 8:53 PM

(RAY)

(Fogra 39) Job:02-28051 Title:RP-Textile Artist Handbook

#175 DTP:225 Page:131

122-137_28051.indd 131 3/6/12 8:53 PM

(Text)

DYEINGThE T E x TIl E ArTIs T 's sTu DIo hANDbook

130

Extracting and Preparing

the Dye

The first step in natural dyeing is extraction, followed

by preparing a dye bath. Extract the dye from the ma-

terials in a pot or kettle large enough to fit your fibers

or materials.

Extracting the Dye

The extraction steps below apply to all kinds of natu-

ral dye sources, not just the ones listed.

Dried Materials, including Roots

and Hardwood Chips

1. Cut the materials into small pieces and/or pulverize

them if needed. Soak the cut up bits in warm water

overnight or at least 12 hours.

2. Add more water and bring the solution to a simmer-

ing temperature (or refer to the packaging instruc-

tions). Let it simmer for at least half an hour.

3. Strain the dye materials, saving the extracted liquid

solution; this is the dye. The simmered dye materi-

als can be saved and reused in future extractions.

Fresh Materials

1. Chop the materials into small pieces and cover them

with water. Bring the bath to a simmering tempera-

ture and let it simmer for at least half an hour.

2. Strain the dye material, saving the extract liquid so-

lution. You can do a second extraction using the

same dye material, but it won’t be possible to dry

it for future use.

Extracts

Following the proportions recommended by the sup-

plier, weigh the quantity of extract needed and add

it to warm water, stirring until it is dissolved. Slowly

raise the temperature to a simmering temperature.

Dye Lab Safety Rules

• Use adequate protective material (gloves,

aprons, goggles, respirator masks).

• Never leave a hot plate on unattended. Make

sure you turn off the hot plates when you

leave the room.

• Immediately clean any spill, especially if you

are using a potentially harmful reagent (such

as soda ash, urea water, etc.).

• Don’t use the same measuring spoon or

instrument in different reagent containers to

avoid contamination.

• When throwing away large quantities of dye,

mordant, fixative solution, etc., allow the

water to run for an extended time.

• Label any dye/mordant/xative solution that

you are storing with your name, the date, and

a description of the solution.

• Make sure to carefully read the safety sheets

and/or packaging that come with the materi-

als and reagents that you’re using and keep

them in a binder in the dye lab for reference.

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(Fogra 39) Job:02-28051 Title:RP-Textile Artist Handbook

03-C66286 #175 DTP:225 Page:130

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(Text)

DYEING

131

The TexT ile ArT isT 's sTudio hAndbook

Preparing the Dye Bath

Once the dyes are extracted from the materials, the

dye bath is ready. Simply add your fibers or yardage

to the kettle or pot. Typically, you’ll simmer the fibers

for about thirty minutes or until they are the desired

color. The longer you leave them in the dye bath, the

deeper the color. The colors do tend to lighten once

the fibers are dry, so to let the fibers soak longer if

you want deeper colors. Dye baths can remain in the

pot, or you can store them in plastic containers in the

refrigerator for future use. Once they get moldy, you’ll

have to throw them away.

The Dyeing Process

Before you dye your fibers, you need to scour (wash)

them and then soak them in a mordant bath. Adjust

the type of mordant, water temperature, and simmer-

ing time according to the type of fiber and the instruc-

tions on the mordant packaging.

Scouring the Fibers

First, you will need to scour, or wash your fibers.

Scouring is essential to a good, even dye job, because

it removes sizing or dirt from the fibers, allowing the

dye to penetrate better. For wool, silk, and linen, wash

the fibers in simmering (just below boiling) water with

a few drops of pH neutral soap (synthrapol or any

baby soap will work) for at least an hour. Wash cot-

ton fibers in simmering water with a few drops of pH

neutral soap and 2 teaspoons (10 g) of soda ash (or

washing soda) per ounce of cotton for at least an hour.

This naturally dyed tote bag can be

made from instructions further on in

this chapter.

Scouring is an important step in the

dyeing process; it removes residue

from the fabric that may stop dye

from penetrating the fiber.

Mordanting the Fibers

Choose the best mordant for your project. The most

popular mordant is aluminum, often called alum, be-

cause it is safe and easy to use and produces bright

shades. When you are working with mordants, be

sure to wear gloves, goggles, and a respirator, espe-

cially when the mordant powder is very fine.

Dissolve the mordant in warm water and add it

to 2 gallons (7.6 L) of warm water. Refer to the instruc-

tions on the mordant for any specific instructions.

Bring the water to the right temperature for the fiber

type and immerse in the bath for about an hour. Refer

to the instructions for how long to simmer the fibers.

Let the water cool down and then rinse the fibers.

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(Fogra 39) Job:02-28051 Title:RP-Textile Artist Handbook

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