Maine is New England on the grandest scale – it’s larger than Connecticut, Rhode Island, Vermont, and New Hampshire combined. Much of the state remains terra incognita to visitors, who rarely stray far from the coastline. Of course, with a coast that wriggles around peninsulas and into harbors for an astonishing 5,500 miles (8,850 km) between Kittery and Calais, there’s plenty to see without abandoning the smell of salt air. Turn off Route 1 down any peninsula, and you suddenly enter a world of broad scenic vistas and salt-sprayed small villages, with a lobster harbor at the tip. Along Maine’s southern coast, shining sand beaches stretch for ...

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