Trastevere and Prati

Trastevere, which literally means “across the Tiber”, is Rome’s left bank and Bohemian neighbourhood. The former working-class ghetto has retained its medieval character better than any other part of Rome, despite having become one of the most restaurant- and nightlife-packed zones of the city. The Borgo is Vatican turf, a largely uninspired grid of streets strung with kitsch religious souvenir shops and bad, tourist-orientated restaurants. Its medieval character was ruined when Mussolini laid out the grand Via della Conciliazione leading to St Peter’s. North of the Borgo however stretches Prati, developed in the 19th century ...

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