201
Fukuko Ando
Fukuko Ando
F
If one word could encapsulate the work of this Japanese designer, it would be “poetry”:
poetry in the way she creates her garments, beginning with the sensation that the textures
of the fabrics produce in her fi ngertips; poetry in the way she extracts from her materials
diff erent modes of covering a model while utilizing volumes in the creation of a dress as if
she were fashioning a work of pottery.
After completing her studies in literature, she decided to enroll as a fashion design student
at the Mode Gakuen vocational school in Nagoya. She later continued her design training
at the renowned Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, with the goal of understand-
ing Western body forms. And theres no doubt she was successful in this endeavor, as the
work of this personal and intimate designer with such big-name fi rms in French fashion as
Christian Dior and Christian Lacroix makes undoubtedly clear.
From these masters she learned the secrets of haute couture, which she then applied to her
own vision of fashion. For Fukuko Ando, the creative process signifi es an immersion in her
own subjective world, a kind of ceremony that involves making garments on a model in
front of a mirror so that she can see the evolution of the dress from all perspectives, thereby
creating clothes that respect the shape of the human fi gure.
She is a clear example that the world of fashion refl ects not only the spirit of the times but
also a personal vision and way of understanding beauty, establishing a dialogue with the
fabric on the changing and movable surface of the human form.
Photography by Luigi Migani
202
Fukuko Ando
Numerous techniques gathered over the
years and adapted for his own purposes
make the creations of Fukuko Ando
unmistakable. Knots, transparencies,
inlaid work and crochet all form part of
his magical universe.
Photography by Michael Wayne Plant
203
Fukuko Ando
Photography by Michael Wayne Plant
204
Fukuko Ando
- What inspires you?
I’d like to take the Louvres Winged Victory of Samothrace as an example. I can sense the life, the total liberty and energy
of this statue. It has a greatness you want to grasp but which eludes you, a movement as full as the wind.  e Victory
symbolizes my desire for a dress that is alive and free through time and space.
- What is your dream as a designer?
Dresses are living beings with a soul, as well as a body. Like the Winged Victory of Samothrace, I would like to create
dresses that awaken human beings, so that wonderful human souls would open their hearts and reach for the light.
is is a prayer.
- What has been the most important achievement of your career?
e Golden Promise (fashion show and performance). Fifteen dancers from the Ballet de l’Opéra National de Paris
(including the start dancer, Marie-Agnès Gillot) performed at l’Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts de Paris in
October 2006.
- How important are trends?
My concept of creation is like Madame Madeleine Vionnet. She used to say, “What I made was harmony: an ensemble
of shapes and colors that would never change nor age. I wanted only things that would last, not just for a month or a
year, but forever.
- Fashion has always refl ected a certain era. What does fashion refl ect in the twenty-fi rst century?
Love/light now and forever.
- What book would you recommend to every fashion designer?
La chair de la robe, by Madeleine Chapsal, a biography of Madame Madeleine Vionnet.
Fukuko Ando
280, rue Saint-Honoré
75001 Paris
France
www.fukukoando.com
205
Fukuko Ando
Photography by Michael Wayne Plant

Get Atlas of Fashion Designers now with O’Reilly online learning.

O’Reilly members experience live online training, plus books, videos, and digital content from 200+ publishers.