Beyond the Break

CHAPTER 1HAWAII: The biggest opportunities often appear to be mistakes

The oppressive humidity was the first thing that hit me when I stepped through the doors of the Hawaii International Airport, weary after a nine-hour haul from Sydney. On the plane I'd been barely able to keep my eyes open, but now I was hyped on expectation. World surfing circuit here I come. I had been anxious for months, knowing that Hawaii, with its life-threatening powerful waves, was the ultimate testing ground for an up-and-coming professional surfer.

Beads of sweat gathered in my hairline as I dragged a suitcase and huge board bag off the walkway and set them down.

Keenan dumped his gear beside mine. ‘Well, we're not in Narrabeen anymore. What time's our ride supposed to be here, Christo?’

I pulled a printed page from a pocket of my board shorts and unfolded it. Our flight itinerary and some details I had scribbled under it were all I had. ‘It's five past midnight, so we landed a little early. The sponsor guy back home said a photographer they're using would pick us up. Should be here any minute.’

Several of the passengers glanced quizzically at us as they scurried towards hire cars and taxis. No doubt they were wondering where our parents were. I smiled to myself. Nope, this sixteen year old was going to take the world by storm single-handedly.

Hawaii was a mystery to me, other than what I knew from the televised world surfing competitions I'd watched over the years. The island had been shrouded ...