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286 FORM, FIT, AND FASHION
Text
Acknowledgments
Special thanks are due to the designers and fashion professionals interviewed here:
Joseph Abboud, Katherine Bowers, Carla Fernández, Fern Mallis, Dawn Mello, Isaac Mizrahi,
Gretta Monahan, Pam Parmal, Ralph Rucci, Yeohlee Teng, and Philip Treacy.
And to Alicia Kennedy, my editor, Chris Grimley and Kelly Smith, our graphic designers, and
Justin Cote and Victoria Dominguez, my assistants.
Thanks to Robert Frye, Viola Gonzalez, Tina Calderin, Jorden Irizarry, Rebecca Gonzalez, Kilsy
Curiel, Rafael Villalona, Fred Rogers, Jake and Ena Calderin, Jennifer Hudson, Jaycey Wether-
ington, Jaclyn McGeehan, Jamie Mendoza, Kathleen Pilarski, Patricia & Wallace Frye, Richard
Brooks, Mary Garthe, Louis Selvitella, Javier Berdecia, Tracy Aiguier, Lisa Baker, Cynthia, Alex
and Zak Atkinson, Jacobo and Edith Calderin, Fructuoso, Gloria and Leslie Gonzalez, Car-
men Rita Gonzalez, James Hannon, Sondra Grace, Richard Bath, Cheryl Richardson, Richard
Ventura, Mariclaire Hession, Cloud Devine, Laura Soelter, Doreen Mendez, Meredith Byam-
Miller, Dianna Matherly, Mary Higgins, Bethany Van Delft, Gina Fox, Mike and Rosita Boudjouk,
Forough Vaziri, Pedro Miranda, Shirley Sweet, Anita Trottman, Mrs. Garofalo, Mrs. Walsh, Betty
Riaz, Christine Liu, Donna Rice, Robert Birnbaum, Maggie Trichon, Alfred Fiandaca, Frank
Xavier, Katherine Dibble, Jess Meyer, Haven Tyler, Beate Becker, Jim Goshen, Ray Cadrin, Lois
Ingledew, Tania Haddad, Rachael Lahren, Rosina Rucci, Jennifer Lurie, Nina Tryon, Laurie Aus-
tin, Ian Wagasky, Myra Hackel, Brianne Carmody, Anne Vanderheyden, Christina Ramirez.
And to the faculty, administration, and students, past and present, at the School of Fashion
Design in Boston, Massachusetts.
Sander, Jil, 51
Sarian, Shaunt, 137
Schiaparelli, Elsa, 43, 44, 45, 238
seams, directions for sewing, 178
seams, types of, 131
self-evaluation, 11–12
sewing machine, invention of, 29
shades, color, 113
shows
checklists for, 213, 215, 216, 217
components of, 210, 213
showpieces, 25
silhouettes, basic, 130
sizing
charts, 168–169
exibility in, 168
mass customization, 170
skirts, types of, 133, 134
slash and spread, 167
sleeves, types of, 132, 134
slopers, 164
Smith, Jaclyn, 229
snaps, 183
Snow, Carmel, 45, 46, 195
software
fashion sketches, 160
pattern development, 175
textile design, 161
types of, 161
specialization
children’s wear, 77
manufacturing speed, 80
market placement, 77–79
menswear, 77, 102–103
size, 80–81
subcultures, 82–89
women’s wear, 76
Stefani, Gwen, 55, 229, 231
stitching, types of, 176–177, 181
storage, garment, 185
Storto, Daniel, 237
stylists, 56, 207, 276–277
suiting, types of, 134
sustainability, 60, 141, 188, 220
T
tailoring, 180–181
technology, design and, 242–247
Teng, Yeohlee, 186–191
textiles
digital design, 161
dyeing, 124–125
fabric, 119–124, 129
bers, 116–117
industry forecasting, 161
museum collections, 280
printing, 126
solar, 243–245
thread count, 119
yarn, 118
Thaarup, Aage, 136
themes, 22
thread count, 119
tints, 113
Toledo, Ruben, 38, 238
tools
design, 14–17
marketing, 206
patternmaking, 164
rendering, 148
Treacy, Philip, 237, 238, 270–271
Trotti, Guillermo, 246
Turlington, Christy, 50, 229
V
Valentino, 236, 270
Versace, Gianni, 228
Vionnet, Madeleine, 32, 35, 42, 58, 234
von Furstenburg, Diane, 49, 232, 252
Vreeland, Diana, 47, 50, 195
W
waistlines, types of, 131, 134
weaving, types of, 121
Westwood, Vivienne, 49
Williams, Serena, 229
Wintour, Anna, 212
Worth, Charles Frederick, 31–33, 226
Y
Yamamoto, Yohji, 40, 50, 236
yarn, 118
Z
zippers, directions for sewing, 180
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287
Text
Acknowledgments
Special thanks are due to the designers and fashion professionals interviewed here:
Joseph Abboud, Katherine Bowers, Carla Fernández, Fern Mallis, Dawn Mello, Isaac Mizrahi,
Gretta Monahan, Pam Parmal, Ralph Rucci, Yeohlee Teng, and Philip Treacy.
And to Alicia Kennedy, my editor, Chris Grimley and Kelly Smith, our graphic designers, and
Justin Cote and Victoria Dominguez, my assistants.
Thanks to Robert Frye, Viola Gonzalez, Tina Calderin, Jorden Irizarry, Rebecca Gonzalez, Kilsy
Curiel, Rafael Villalona, Fred Rogers, Jake and Ena Calderin, Jennifer Hudson, Jaycey Wether-
ington, Jaclyn McGeehan, Jamie Mendoza, Kathleen Pilarski, Patricia & Wallace Frye, Richard
Brooks, Mary Garthe, Louis Selvitella, Javier Berdecia, Tracy Aiguier, Lisa Baker, Cynthia, Alex
and Zak Atkinson, Jacobo and Edith Calderin, Fructuoso, Gloria and Leslie Gonzalez, Car-
men Rita Gonzalez, James Hannon, Sondra Grace, Richard Bath, Cheryl Richardson, Richard
Ventura, Mariclaire Hession, Cloud Devine, Laura Soelter, Doreen Mendez, Meredith Byam-
Miller, Dianna Matherly, Mary Higgins, Bethany Van Delft, Gina Fox, Mike and Rosita Boudjouk,
Forough Vaziri, Pedro Miranda, Shirley Sweet, Anita Trottman, Mrs. Garofalo, Mrs. Walsh, Betty
Riaz, Christine Liu, Donna Rice, Robert Birnbaum, Maggie Trichon, Alfred Fiandaca, Frank
Xavier, Katherine Dibble, Jess Meyer, Haven Tyler, Beate Becker, Jim Goshen, Ray Cadrin, Lois
Ingledew, Tania Haddad, Rachael Lahren, Rosina Rucci, Jennifer Lurie, Nina Tryon, Laurie Aus-
tin, Ian Wagasky, Myra Hackel, Brianne Carmody, Anne Vanderheyden, Christina Ramirez.
And to the faculty, administration, and students, past and present, at the School of Fashion
Design in Boston, Massachusetts.
textiles
digital design, 161
dyeing, 124–125
fabric, 119–124, 129
bers, 116–117
industry forecasting, 161
museum collections, 280
printing, 126
solar, 243–245
thread count, 119
yarn, 118
Thaarup, Aage, 136
themes, 22
thread count, 119
tints, 113
Toledo, Ruben, 38, 238
tools
design, 14–17
marketing, 206
patternmaking, 164
rendering, 148
Treacy, Philip, 237, 238, 270–271
Trotti, Guillermo, 246
Turlington, Christy, 50, 229
V
Valentino, 236, 270
Versace, Gianni, 228
Vionnet, Madeleine, 32, 35, 42, 58, 234
von Furstenburg, Diane, 49, 232, 252
Vreeland, Diana, 47, 50, 195
W
waistlines, types of, 131, 134
weaving, types of, 121
Westwood, Vivienne, 49
Williams, Serena, 229
Wintour, Anna, 212
Worth, Charles Frederick, 31–33, 226
Y
Yamamoto, Yohji, 40, 50, 236
yarn, 118
Z
zippers, directions for sewing, 180
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