Chapter 7

Finding the Essence

Imagine yourself on the back of a motorbike taxi, buzzing through the scarred concrete streets of Ho Chi Minh City’s outer residential neighborhoods on a sweltering June morning. You fix your gaze on the rows upon rows of TV antennas jutting from rooftops and contemplate their statement on status symbolism and technology adoption, until something at street level grabs your attention. It’s not much: a large bottle containing three or four liters of semitransparent liquid, perched atop a brick, attended to by a kid, no more than ten years old, who holds a length of plastic tubing in his hand and watches to see if you’ll stop. Your driver pulls over. You’ve arrived at the gas station—not just any gas station, but the ...

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