6

PADDLE BACK OUT

WHO KNEW MARK TWAIN WAS . . . A SURFER? IN HIS JOURnal from June 1907, he wrote, “I got the board placed right, and at the right moment, too, but missed the connection myself. The board struck the shore in three quarters of a second, without any cargo, and I struck the bottom about the same time, with a couple of barrels of water in me.”1 Another famous writer surfed too . . . Jack London. In an article entitled “Riding the South Seas Surf,” the adventurer wrote about visiting friends in Waikiki and of his first encounter with riding ocean waves. “I tried for a solid hour and not one wave could I persuade to boost me forward.”2 A good swimmer, he sat, listened and watched the waves being ridden by a local Kanaka, “. . . a man, ...

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