140 Using Light
Night Photography
Night Photography
Digital photography opens new realms for image cre-
ation at night, along with new problems and pitfalls.
Digital sensors don’t see the night the way our human
eyes do (or the way film did, for that matter).
Your digital sensor doesn’t really care that there isn’t
very much light out there in the night. You may be
stumbling around in the dark trying not to fall off of
a cliff (the chief occupational risk to night photogra
-
p
hers), but provided you expose your camera so that
the sensor gets plenty of light, your photos won’t por-
t
ray the scene as dark at all.
The fly in this ointment is that exposing a night scene
properly means using a high ISO, or a very long shut-
t
er speed (sometimes in minutes), or both, resulting
in substantial levels of noise (see Chapter 4 for more
about noise, and pages 162–163 for information about
noise reduction in the digital darkroom).
Your digital sensor will be able to pick up and record
light you can barely see, particularly after sunset. For
example, even after the glow of sunset has faded from a
cliff to human eyes, it is often still colorful and vibrant
to a digital camera, provided the photo is properly ex
-
posed and post-processed.
Sometimes the beautiful after effects of sunset are in-
v
isible to the naked eye, but picked up by the camera,
and don’t emerge until the photo is post-processed in
the digital darkroom.
Most likely, the light meter in your camera will be use-
les
s in low-light night conditions. There are a couple
of other constraints that make night exposures harder
to get right:
n
The image in your LCD may be completely dark
(even when the RAW capture contains plenty of
good information), making it difficult to review im-
a
ges in the field. You’ll need to learn to decode
im
ages in your LCD that bear a only a slight rela-
t
ionship to the actual finished image.
n
Individual captures can take a long time, particu-
larly when long exposure noise reduction is turned
on (as it should be, see page 95); you may not have
the opportunity to make more than one or two ex
-
p
osures per night, with each exposure draining an
entire battery.
Obviously, if you are going to be doing much night
work, you need to get good at guesstimating exposures
with relatively little information in night conditions.
Two techniques Ive found that help come up with rea-
s
onable exposures are to:
n
Start photographing before it is entirely dark, and
keep photographing as it becomes apparently black.
This helps me understand the exposure realities as
full night does take over, and gives me a starting
place for deriving my full night exposures.
n
Use a boosted ISO and a faster shutter speed to es-
tablish a correct exposure, then use the comparative
version of the exposure equation to capture a ver-
sio
n at lower ISO and a longer exposure time (see
pages 28–29 for a night-time case study using this
technique).
Not all night photography is of grand vistas. This photos shows Christmas lights
reflected in a water drop.
200mm f/4 macro lens, 30 seconds at f/25 and ISO 100, tripod mounted.
T
his five-minute exposure of Mount Tamalpais at night shows stars, ambient light,
and vehicles in motion.
18–200mm VR zoom lens at 18mm, 300 seconds at f/3.5 and ISO 100, tripod mounted.

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