CHAPTER 2 Afritrex

As the last ropes were thrown down to the Spanish dockworkers, my link to European soil was severed. I was leaving the relative safety of my home continent for a land of border crossings, endless paperwork, poverty, tyranny, heat and mosquitos — and of adventure, extraordinary experiences, sunshine and beaming smiles.

For years I'd been dreaming about this moment. Africa was less than an hour's sail away. I'd be immersed in it very soon.

There's something hugely significant for me about this stretch of water. It's only 30 kilometres from Spain across the Strait of Gibraltar to the Moroccan coastline, roughly comparable to the English Channel at the narrow end, but in terms of travel logistics the two stretches of water ...

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