The Textile Artist's Studio Handbook

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(Fogra 39) Job:02-28051 Title:RP-Textile Artist Handbook

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050-069_28051.indd 52 3/6/12 7:53 PM

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(Fogra 39) Job:02-28051 Title:RP-Textile Artist Handbook

#175 DTP:225 Page:53

050-069_28051.indd 53 3/6/12 7:53 PM

(Text)

The TexT ile ArT isT 's sTudio hAndbook

52

s pinning, k niTTing, A nd CroC heT

Spinning yarn and then using the yarns to create

your own fabrics (from start to finish) through the

processes of knitting and crochet is one of the most

creatively rewarding textile experiences. It encom-

passes fabric design from the start with raw fibers to

the finish, with the creation of fabric yardage through

knitting or crochet.

For those who focus on textile art and design with

ready-made fabric (screen-printed yardage or shibori

dyed cloth, for example), you should consider adding

spinning, knitting, and crocheting to your textile en-

deavors. These processes allow you to design from

the absolute beginning and better understand the

structure and therefore behavior of yarn and fabric.

Also consider combining techniques. Dye your own

yarn or use strips of cut fabric to knit a chunky wall

decor. Knitting and crochet can be used beyond

traditional winter scarves and hats. Consider them as

techniques that can be applied in many other ways.

We recommend keeping knitting, spinning, and

crochet materials and equipment in your studio. The

basics, listed here, are a minimal investment, easy to

store, and versatile.

Ball winder and swift If you purchase yarn in skeins,

you’ll need to wind the skein into a ball, and these

tools make it easy.

Crochet hooks With minimal expense, you can

invest in crochet hooks in many sizes. They will come

in handy for mending knit garments.

Drop spindle The drop spindle, either the top or bot-

tom whorl, come in a variety of sizes and styles. Nei-

ther style is better, but you should try using different

ones at the store to see which you prefer. Your first

drop spindle should be heavy enough to keep a good

spin going, but not so heavy that it’s hard to operate.

Discuss the options with the store clerk.

Roving or Top Make sure you have a variety of fibers

in the form of roving or top in a variety of colors. Top

is ready to be spun, with all the fibers aligned and

carded. Roving needs to be carded before spinning;

however, uncarded roving can be used to create a

bulky knit or crocheted fabric or for both dry and wet

felting. (see Spinning a Skein, page 58).

Knitting needles Stock your studio with straight and

circular knitting needles in a variety of sizes. You

might get a set of double-pointed needles for knit-

ting in the round too.

Yarns Head to a yarn store and browse; you’ll love it.

What colors, textures, and fibers are you drawn to?

Start collecting yarns slowly with a few basic skeins

and don’t overbuy as you will certainly fill your studio

in time.

Tools and Materials

Here is an example of how hand-

knitting can be used as a vehicle for

sculpture. As part of her exhibition

at the Textile Arts Center in July 2011,

artist and designer Julia Ramsey

explored the use of knitting and

crochet for her sculptural elements.

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THE TEXT ILE ART IST 'S STUDIO HANDBOOK S PINNING, K NITTING, A ND CROC HET

53

Spinning Overview

Spinning is the creation of yarn from natural or man-

made fibers. After harvesting fiber, it is the next step

in textile creation. When you spin your own yarn, you

have total control over the type of yarn you produce.

You can select the type and blend of fibers, the colors,

and whether or not your yarn has a mottled effect (see

Space Dyeing Project) or uneven slub (see the yarn

used for the Circle Scarf project). You have so much

opportunity for creativity.

Spinning yarn is one of the oldest and most vital

textile arts. Evidences of spinning in some form shows

up in many historical artifacts, some from 20,000

years ago. The first methods of spinning involved tak-

ing animal fibers and rubbing them up and down the

thigh. Over time, the need for yarn increased and the

methods of spinning became more advanced to help

meet the demand. Two tools, the spindle and distaff,

were early spinning tools. The distaff was used to hold

the unspun fiber, so hands were free to pull the fibers

while spinning them. The spindle was a drop spindle,

pretty much the same as we know it today. During the

industrial revolution, the rate of spinning needed to

increase, so while a drop spindle was quick, the spin-

ning wheel, the tool that revolutionized spinning, was

much quicker and efficient!

Spinning in the Studio

When most people think of spinning, they picture Ra-

punzel, who sat at a spinning wheel. A spinning wheel

is a fairly large and expensive tool, certainly worth the

investment if spinning becomes your passion. The

Schacht Spindle Company sells small, portable, and

quality spinning wheels at a good value.

If you aren’t ready to invest in a spinning wheel,

the drop spindle is also a popular way of spinning fiber

into yarn, and it is small and inexpensive. We suggest

starting with a drop spindle and exploring this first

before moving on to a wheel. Learning to spin many

kinds of fiber is fun and will keep you busy. Merino,

alpaca, silk, and cotton all spin differently; and there

is no replacing practice and trial and error for learning

which fibers you like to work with most. See the tuto-

rial on page 58 for a very brief introduction into the

spinning world.

The following sections are about how yarn is used

to create fabric by knitting and crochet. While it is true

for all textile media, the world of knitting and crochet

is especially huge. Our intention is to help you to un-

derstand the very basic principles of both knitting and

crochet so that you can begin to use these media at

home and further explore them for yourself. Your lo-

cal yarn store will be a fantastic resource for learning

more about yarns and for taking classes.

Art of Spinsters

During the Middle Ages, many poor families in

need of spun yarn kept the unmarried women

and girls of the family spinning yarn in their free

time, and they became known as “spinsters.”

FYI

This skein was completely hand spun

and wound using a drop spindle and

merino roving top. Does it look that

different from what you’d buy in a

store? You can do it yourself!

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(Fogra 39) Job:02-28051 Title:RP-Textile Artist Handbook

#175 DTP:225 Page:53

050-069_28051.indd 53 3/6/12 7:40 PM