The Textile Artist's Studio Handbook

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(Fogra 39) Job:02-28051 Title:RP-Textile Artist Handbook

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050-069_28051.indd 54 3/6/12 7:53 PM

(RAY)

(Fogra 39) Job:02-28051 Title:RP-Textile Artist Handbook

#175 DTP:225 Page:55

050-069_28051.indd 55 3/6/12 7:53 PM

(Text)

Spinning, Knitting, and CroC hett he t extile a rtiS t'S Studio h andbooK

54

Knitting Overview

The history of knitting is fairly ambiguous. Since wool,

silk, and cotton yarns degrade quickly, there are few

knit items that date very far back. And, unlike weaving

and spinning, which have very specific tools, knitting

needles are simply pointed sticks. In addition, be-

cause yarn was a commodity, knit items were usu-

ally unraveled and re-knit when the garment no longer

fit its owner until the yarn was no longer useable. No

mention of knitting or crocheting appears in literary

works until the fifteenth century, unlike weaving and

spinning, which date back to humanity’s oldest texts.

Though the history of knitting is a mystery, there is no

denying its cultural importance.

handknitting

Flat knitting creates fabric with selvedges (edges).

One set of two needles is used to construct row upon

row of loops.

Circular knitting creates a tube, which can be used

for the body of sweaters, socks, ornaments, and much

more. Also known as “knitting in the round,” you can

Yarn is spun by twisting fibers together in

either a clockwise (S-twist) or counterclockwise

(Z-twist) direction. The twists per inch (TPI) de-

termine how tightly wound the yarn is. Single ply

yarns are created with a Z-twist. To create thicker

yarns, single ply yarns can be twisted, or plied

together, using a “S-twist” to spin two already

twisted yarns together. It is in the twisting to-

gether of different single-ply yarns that heavier,

thicker, and multicolor yarns with blended fibers

are produced.

Understanding Ply

“Gauge” refers to the number of stitches in

4 inches (10.2 cm) of knitting. In hand knitting

(and crochet), the gauge will vary depending on

the yarn weight, needle size, and individual knit-

ter. Always knit or crochet a swatch before start-

ing any project and make sure it measures the

indicated gauge measurements in the pattern.

To make and measure a gauge swatch:

1. Knit (crochet) a 4-inch (10.2 cm) square

swatch.

2. Smooth out the swatch on a flat surface.

3. Use a tape measure to mark 4 inches (10.2 cm)

across and 4 inches (10.2 cm) down. Count

Understanding Gauge

the number of stitches across and the number

of rows down.

4. Compare your measurements to the suggest-

ed gauge measurements on the pattern.

•Ifyouhavemorestitchesperinch,your

stitches are too small. Try larger needles.

•Ifyouhavefewerstitchesperinch,your

stitches are too big. Try smaller needles.

•Ifyouhavemoreorfewerrowsperinch

than suggested, you might want to consid-

er a different weight and/or texture of yarn.

Or make length adjustments by knitting

more or fewer rows as needed.

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(Fogra 39) Job:02-28051 Title:RP-Textile Artist Handbook

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Spinning, Knitting, and CroC het

55

The TexT ile ArT isT 's sTudio hAndbook

use one set of circular needles, which are connected

by two ends by a flexible cord, or three or four double-

pointed knitting needles, which hold active loops as

you work your way around.

There are three very basic steps:

Yarn is classified by weight, which refers to its

thickness. There are bulky, worsted, sport, baby

or sock, and fingering weights. The thicker the

yarn, the fewer stitches it will take to knit 1 inch

(2.5 cm); this is called gauge and is usually

indicated on the packaging. If you have spun

your own yarn, you will need to do a gauge

swatch to determine how many stitches per

inch it will knit.

You’ll also want to try knitting projects with

different size needles. Needles come in vary-

ing lengths. Straight needles are 10–14 inches

(25.4–35.6 cm) long; and connected circular

Yarn Weight and Needle Size

needles are much longer. Needles also come

in sizes like 0, 1, 2, 3, etc. The larger the needle

size, the thicker the needle. Thicker needles cre-

ated larger size stitches.

Needles are available in many styles:

•Straightneedlesforknittinginrows

•Circularneedlesthatareconnectedatone

end for knitting in the round

•Double-pointedneedles(orDPNs)forknitting

in the round, especially at a small scale

ABOVE There are two types of hand

knitting: circular and flat.

1. Cast stitches on.

2. Work the knit and purl stitches to create fabric.

3. Bind stitches off.

Cast On Every knit project is begun by “casting on,”

the creation of the first row of stitches. There are many

ways to cast on. A knitter generally sets the width of

the piece during casting on, but it can be made wider

or narrower by increasing or decreasing stitches.

Stitch Knitting This involves two basic stitches, knit

and purl, which create a wide array of patterns and

styles. These two stitches are formed through the

pulling of the continuous yarn through the front or

back of an active loop. Though it seems simple, knit-

ting can become quite intricate and detailed, as seen

in the processes of intarsia, cable, or Fair Isle. These

more intricate designs usually require a pattern, which

break down the knit into “pixels.” Patterns are also

used in knitting to create shaped garments that re-

quire increasing, decreasing, and picking up stitches.

Bind Off The piece is completed by “casting off.”

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(Fogra 39) Job:02-28051 Title:RP-Textile Artist Handbook

#175 DTP:225 Page:55

050-069_28051.indd 55 3/6/12 7:40 PM