The Textile Artist's Studio Handbook

(RAY)

(Fogra 39) Job:02-28051 Title:RP-Textile Artist Handbook

#175 DTP:225 Page:142

138-151_28051.indd 142 3/6/12 8:54 PM

(RAY)

(Fogra 39) Job:02-28051 Title:RP-Textile Artist Handbook

#175 DTP:225 Page:143

138-151_28051.indd 143 3/6/12 8:54 PM

(Text)

THE TEXT ILE ARTI ST' S S T UDIO HANDB OOK

142

SEWING, QUILT ING,A ND APPLIQ UÉ

Whipstitch

A whipstitch (also known as a blanket stitch) is used

for binding or nishing edges. You can nish a single

edge of fabric or bind two edges together because

the thread wraps around the fabric edge(s).

Backstitch

The backstitch is a stitch that looks like one continu-

ous line, with no breaks (unlike the straight stitch,

which has breaks). It is used for embroidering or dec-

orative stitching, finishing, and because it is such a

strong stitch, for construction.

The Basics of Machine Sewing

As long as you can sew a straight stitch forward and

in reverse and a stretch stitch, you can sew anything.

Straight Stitch

The straight stitch is used to sew woven fabrics. Ad-

just the length of the stitch for temporary (basting)

stitches or for construction stitches, which are typi-

cally shorter than basting stitches.

Reverse Stitch

By sewing in reverse at the beginning and end of a

seam, you lock the stitches so they don’t pull out or

come undone. Every machine has a button, lever, or

dial that instructs the machine to sew in reverse.

Zigzag Stitch

Another basic stitch common to almost all sewing

machines, the zigzag is used for edge finishing and

for sewing knit fabrics. The stitch has built-in stretch,

so it is ideal when working with fabrics that stretch.

Sewing a Plain Seam

1. Raise the needle to the highest position and lift

the presser foot. Position the fabric layers, with the

raw edges aligned, under the presser foot so the

cut edges align with the

1

⁄2” (1.3 cm) or

5

⁄8” (1.6 cm)

seam allowance markings on the bed of the ma-

chine. The width of the seam allowances depends

on the project and the instructions usually indicate

the appropriate seam allowance width.

2. Lower the presser foot and hold the threads out

behind the needle. Take two or three stitches and

adjust the machine to sew two or three stitches in

reverse. Backstitch to the edge of the fabric and

switch the machine to stitch forward again.

3. Continue stitching, with the cut edges along the

seam allowance marking, to the end of the seam.

Backstitch again for about

1

⁄2” (1.3 cm). Raise the

presser foot and pull the fabric out. Cut the threads

to remove the fabric.

4. Press the seam and trim the seam allowances.

Running Stitch

Zig zag stitch

Reverse stitch

Depending on your home sewing

machine, you can create a number of

intricate stitches. Running, zig zag,

and reverse stitches are standard to

any machine and have specific uses

that make your sewing better.

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(Fogra 39) Job:02-28051 Title:RP-Textile Artist Handbook

#175 DTP:225 Page:142

138-151_28051.indd 142 3/6/12 7:32 PM

(Text)

THE TEXT ILE ARTI ST' S S T UDIO HANDB OOK SEWING, QUILT ING,A ND APPLIQ UÉ

143

Tutorial: French Seams

instructions:

1. Press the fabric with the iron set on a

heat setting appropriate for the fiber con-

tent (high for cottons, low for silks, etc).

2. Pin the fabric layers with the wrong sides

together, and sew them together with

1

⁄2” (1.3 cm) seam allowances (see page 140).

[a, b]

3. Trim the seam allowances close to the

seam to about

1

⁄8” (3 mm). Trim the threads

as well. Use sharp fabric scissors so that

the cut edge is very clean and threads are

not snagged. [c, d]

French seams are specialty

seams, perfect for delicate

fabrics that unravel easily

and for times when you

don’t want to see the seam

allowances. It is an enclosed

seam and a professional way

to finish the raw edges inside

the garment or project.

tools

• Sewing machine

• Straight pins

• Sharp fabric scissors

• Iron and ironing board

materials

• Fabric and matching thread

This Singer home machine is a great

one to learn on, but you can also keep

it for years to come and advance your

skills with it. A good machine is a very

worthwhile investment.

A

B

C

D

(RAY)

(Fogra 39) Job:02-28051 Title:RP-Textile Artist Handbook

#175 DTP:225 Page:143

138-151_28051.indd 143 3/6/12 7:32 PM