
INVISCID FLUIDS 185
The essential difficulty is the choice of
s,
i.e. the decision as to how
many generalised coordinates one should take. The solution is
'exact' only when s = n (exact here refers to the solution of the
discretised equations).
5.4 HARMONIC RESPONSE OF COASTAL WATERS
We will now consider a special case of the wave equation. This is the
problem of predicting the harmonic response of coastal waters.
Mean water level
Figure 5.3 Harmonic response—shallow waters
Figure 5.3 defines the notation for this case. We take η(χιΧ
2
ή as
the elevation above sea level (hydrostatic position) and work with
vertically integrated flow measures