CHAPTER 3

GET LOST

Lost really has two disparate meanings. Losing things is about the familiar falling away, getting lost is about the unfamiliar appearing.

REBECCA SOLNIT

Bukovina is not on most travelers’ itineraries. Tucked in the northeastern corner of Romania, near Moldova and Ukraine, Bukovina is a sleepy pocket of rolling landscape dotted with Orthodox churches and monasteries. Built between 1487 and 1583, these religious structures are covered inside and out, floor to ceiling, with brilliant frescoes. For centuries candle smoke dimmed the frescoes’ colors and ultimately snuffed out their visibility to the outside world.

After the collapse of communism and the Romanian Revolution, Bukovina slowly began to reemerge. I’d heard fables about ...

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