Chapter 12

Athens Lost and Found

In the middle of a sea of traffic in Athens, my taxi driver told me to get out of the car. It was November 2010, and the Greek debt crisis was rippling through the country. Union protesters, in an angry effort to compel Greece's parliament not to take away their pay, had closed the downtown core of the city. My driver took me deep into the fray, but the main boulevard into the downtown quarter was blocked off, guarded by city police. When he pointed and cursed at the traffic, saying I needed to get out, I didn't understand. I thought he was being sarcastic. “Yeah right,” I said, joking in response. Having a cab driver merely point and curse at the landscape of traffic horrors on the other side of the windshield ...

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